A still-life photo shoot with equipment used in the tattoo process…
Photos: Kristy Noble / Styling: Yvonne Achato
Embracing female tattoo culture
A still-life photo shoot with equipment used in the tattoo process…
Photos: Kristy Noble / Styling: Yvonne Achato
We had a fun Things&Ink outing to Brighton back in February for Brighton Tattoo Convention. While we were there, we couldn’t resist getting our nails done at the gorgeous Power Beauty Boutique.
Behind a discreet door on Duke Street, you will climb some stairs and enter a little haven with warm and welcoming therapists who can do anything from nail art and bikini waxes to make-up and micro-blading.
Excitingly, they now have a room to rent that would suit a professional body piercer or tattoo artist. They already have a licence from the council in place, so are looking for someone who is self-employed to rent the space. We can’t wait to pay them a visit again once they find someone… especially as the room looks like a perfect – and private – sanctuary to get pierced or tattooed in… Just look!
If you’re interested in renting the room either on a part-time or full-time basis, contact Rachel at rachel@powderbeauty.co.uk or give her a call 07899884170. Visit powderbeauty.co.uk, for more information. Powder Beauty Boutique is an established salon with a large client base situated in the heart of Brighton’s city centre.
Inspired by classic tattoo art, Maggie handmakes all her jewellery in silver and sets it with Sapphires – dreamy. Maggie’s small collection, titled Norma Kerr is bold, feminine and romantic. We caught up with her in her studio in Hay on Wye to find out more…
Tell us a little about yourself and what you do? I have worked as a jewellery designer and maker for many years in London and in Italy. Designing for costume and fashion jewellery at one end to fine jewellers at the other. I started my career working at Garrard & Co (the Crown jewellers) so I have seen all sides of the industry. I especially love the tiny Dickensian workshops in London’s Hatton Garden and the Jewellery Quarter in Birmingham – I don’t think they’ve changed in 100 years. In some ways, there are many similarities between the skills of jewellers and those of tattoo artists – working in small studios down a side street off the main drag. Somewhere you wouldn’t go unless you knew what you’re looking for, or are part of that tribe.
Where are you based and what is your workspace like? I live and work in Hay on Wye, one of the best places you can possibly imagine – it’s full of bookshops and surrounded by stunning countryside. The town is very small and all of the shops, restaurants, pubs and cafes are independent so the place is full of personality. Hay is a thriving town – which is pretty hard to find in such a remote part of Britain (25 miles from a train station and an hour from a motorway). There is a great quality of life here. When I am not at my work bench, I’m the Director of Development for the Hay Festival – but that’s another story…
My workbench is on the ground floor of my house next to the kitchen – a jeweller’s bench doesn’t take up much room. Over the years I seem to have acquired lots of skills, so I can also turn my hand to making my own jewellery display pads – covered in beautiful dusky pink silk, lining the lids of my leather boxes so that my jewellery is really beautifully presented – like old fashioned jewellers’ boxes that are beautiful in their own right. I love that I have the skills to make everything look exactly how I want it to, bespoke and special. Having craft skills is such a source of pleasure, I can’t recommend it enough.
Tell us about your working day… My daughter Grace is 12 years old, so getting her up and ready for school is how my days start. I like to leave a little early to drive her to the bus stop, so we can sit in the car and chat or listen to music. Billie Eilish is our latest discovery. Grace is quite chatty in the car, I love that.
When I get home, I prepare everything for the day: tidy up my bench, heat up the pickle (an acid solution used to clean something after soldering), make a coffee, then get on with making. The process starts with filing and cleaning up the cast components – components that are unique to me from models I made in wax. Once each piece is ready to be soldered together, I start with attaching the wings to the heart. This takes a big flame on my torch – these are big pieces that take time to get up to temperature to be hot enough for the solder to flow. Once that’s done – it goes into the pickle bath for 10 mins or so – I repeat the process with the ribbon, then one of the three motifs: sword, flame or flower. Next is the chain and clasp, once they are soldered on, the piece is ready to be polished. Polishing is my least favourite part of the process and it’s a real skill. I often send pieces up to workshops in Birmingham to be polished for a really stunning finish.
Setting the stone (Sapphire) comes next – it’s a delicate job and I love choosing a beautiful stone to set. When everything is looking fabulous, the next job is to send it off to the Assay Office – to be hallmarked with my makers mark and assayed sterling silver. Last is engraving, this is a specialist skill I don’t have so I work with another great craftsman in Birmingham who engraves the name or word across the ribbon. It’s a long process from start to finish.
What do you love about the process of making? Is each of the pieces you create unique? I set up my workbench a couple of years ago after a long break from jewellery (when I turned my hand to become the Producer of Hay Festival in Wales and in Kenya). I did it as a way to help myself relax. I had forgotten what it felt like to make something by hand. How you can lose yourself in the process, the concentration it takes to really focus on the craft. The skills I had learnt, I had not forgotten. Buying new tools and equipment, sourcing precious stones, researching the best engravers and polishers, being a part of the trade – it does feel quite special. I imagine being a tattoo artist has a similar mystique.
The work I produce is quite unusual in how it’s made, I combine the techniques of costume and fine jewellery production. Each piece is unique and depends on the client’s choice of Sapphire stone colour and engraving – it is totally bespoke, in the same way you would choose a name or word to have as a tattoo. It is something that will last forever, something that is important and meaningful. There is a lot of romance too.
Why Norma Kerr? I am one of four sisters and we all share the same middle names Norma (from my Dad’s side of the family) and Kerr (from my Mum’s side). It was always a great source of embarrassment to me growing up – especially Norma, as it sounded so old fashioned. I hated anyone asking “what’s your middle name?” As I got older I started to like the names more (especially when I discovered Marilyn Monroe’s real name was Norma) and that we all four sisters had the same name felt quite unique and special. So, when I started the business, I knew I wanted the logo to be based on classic 1940s-50s style female tattoo design – I had seen in a tattoo reference book years ago. So, once I drawn my own version I called her Norma Kerr. Norma Kerr is a sort of alter ego, a kick-ass girl who sits on top of the world – a strong woman.
Are all your pieces inspired by tattoos? Yes, my collection is entirely inspired by what I think of as classic tattoo motifs; hearts, wings, flowers, ribbons and so on. I think there is a real affinity between engraving and tattooing. I like the idea of engraving one of my necklaces with a name or something meaningful that you can wear and then pass on as an heirloom to future generations. Where there is the story behind the engraving, a story of love, something or someone being commemorated perhaps – just as you would with a tattoo.
What is your favourite piece you have created? Is there a meaning to the stones you use? Originally, I came up with three necklace designs; Love, Hope and Grace. The piece called Love has a sword through the heart – let’s face it, there is nothing more painful than love. Hope is a flame, a flame of hope is something about nurturing a spark, hope for the future. Grace is a state of mind, to be graceful is about beauty and serenity. The rest of my collection complements these three pieces – with matching earrings and bracelets. I use blue, pink or yellow sapphires in my work – I chose precious stones over semi-precious, there is nothing semi about my work, only the best will do! Precious stones are cut so beautifully the colours are intense. Jewellery set with yellow or pink sapphires is quite unusual too. I like that.
If you could be a piece of jewellery, what would it be and why? I would be a diamond – bright and full of sparkle!
Please tell me about the significance of the Grace necklace. The Grace necklace is the heart, wings and flower design. All things of beauty, a heart is something we want to give or receive from our loved ones, wings – wings of desire, wings to fly free, to be a free spirit. And flowers – there is little more beautiful in nature than flowers. I love to grow them, have them in my house always they give me so much pleasure. And did I mention – Grace is the name I gave my daughter?
Visit normakerr.bigcartel.com or follow on Insta @normakerrsapphire for sparkly inspiration
We adore tattoo conventions: everyone united by their passion under one roof, that buzz of tattoo needles and endless inked skin. We love stopping people to have a chat to find out more about their style and what they love about tattoos. Here’s who we chatted to at Brighton Tattoo Convention a couple of weeks ago…
Photos by Amber Carnegie
Anna Harvey Williams @wonderlander
Job: MUA
Tattoos by Antony Flemming, Kate Selkie, Vicky Morgan
Star sign: Aquarius
“I am at the convention because my tattoo artist Antony has moved to Canada and he is back in the UK for this!”
Lizzie Guy @lizzytotaltattoomag
Job: Editor Total Tattoo
Tattoos by Jon Longstaff and Enzo Barbareschi at Black Dog Norwich and Alex Binnie
“This bag is made from an old bouncy castle, by Wyatt and Jack“
Grace Reed @_gracereed
Job: Tattooer at No Friends Tattoo Club in Brighton
Tattoos by James Grave and Jane Rose
“I had to use my straighteners on my tee this morning because I didn’t have an iron!”
Lydia Amor @lydiaamor_tattoo
Job: Tattooer, Black Market, Leicester
Scorpion tattoo by Vinny Garcia
“I love lamps”
Louise Henesy
Job: photographer and business owner
Tattoo by Valerie Vargas
“Babe Cave started three years ago. I wanted my own little brand as a side hustle.”
Hopefully see you all at some more conventions this year? Let us know which ones you’ll be going to #thingsandink
Managing editor Keely Reichardt approached tattoo artist, Fidjit over Instagram in July 2015 after spotting an ambiguous statement posted late at night. Fidjit chose to remove the post not long after it had gone live, but Keely decided to reach out to her, to find out about the life-changing event she had hinted at…
The deleted post described the language used against her in a recent court case… Fidjit is a rape survivor and endured a horrific court ordeal where the defendant was found not guilty. With only 5.7% of rape cases ending in a conviction for the perpetrator, Fidjit wanted us to share her story to make people aware of court proceedings and your rights as a victim.
“I started going out with my ex boyfriend when I was fifteen years old. We briefly broke up when I was twenty but then we got back together. Just before I turned twenty-one, he raped me.
“He had never been violent in any way before, he showed no warning signs. It happened in April 2011. I would like to keep the intimate details of what happened to myself, it’s too personal to share with everyone. There was an argument which resulted in him raping me. Immediately after it happened he broke down, burst into tears and repeatedly apologised, it seemed like he went into some sort of shock – as I did too. I didn’t cry or move or speak, I remember feeling very numb, I couldn’t process what had just happened, I just sat and listened to him crying.
“For a long time afterwards I was definitely in denial. We spoke together about what had happened, he never denied what he had done and always took full responsibility. I was in denial and so confused about what had happened that I phoned the Samaritans a few days after. I explained what had happened and they told me I had been raped and that I should contact my local Rape Crisis centre. My ex boyfriend drove me there himself and he threw up in the car park; the fact that he had taken me there got brought up in court later, but was completely ignored as he said he was just trying to be a good boyfriend. I also saw a nurse. My ex spoke to a couple of his friends about what had happened. One of his friends told him what he had done was wrong and he stopped speaking to him. The other friend told him I was his girlfriend and that it doesn’t count if you’re in a relationship?! These two friends ended up as witnesses in court. I had also spoken to one friend over the phone, he knew something was wrong and ended up guessing what had happened, I told the police about him being the first person that I had told. They said he would be my witness. They never even contacted him and he was not involved in the trial.
“Months passed and I still hadn’t told anyone else, and I continued to tell myself that it hadn’t happened but my behaviour began to change. I became incredibly withdrawn and I stopped going to my flat (which I shared with my ex) and would go to my parents every night and stay there for as long as I could until I had to go back to my flat to sleep. My parents and I are extremely close and we tell each other everything. They could see that something was bothering me. Sometimes I’d phone them with the intention of telling them what had happened but I would hang up. I knew that the second I told them everything would change forever. My best friend would be my best friend no longer, he would be my rapist. And I knew that I would have to let his mother know what her son had done, and that’s something I could never think about doing. I knew it would change her life as well as mine and his forever. I feel like because of our history I was protecting him far too much at this point.
“I carried on living at the flat until September 2011, five months after what had happened. My ex was still living there too, we weren’t together but we were just kind of going through the motions. We were still sleeping in the same bed and he was still apologising every day. The friend I had told on the phone finally convinced me to tell my parents. I was spending the night at my parents’ house and something came on the TV that just made me blow up. I became incredibly upset and was screaming about it. My dad said that this behaviour was not normal and I needed to tell them right now what was going on. I remember saying I didn’t want to and he guessed right away what had happened. It is the worst thing I’ve ever had to tell them. This is probably one of the hardest things I had to deal with after my rape; I’m the one who has to tell everyone, including my family, about this horrible thing that had happened.
“I told my parents I didn’t want to go to the police, I refused to, and I didn’t want his mother to know. I decided to move to London as I was living in Scotland at the time. I quit my apprenticeship and sold all of my furniture and I took an overnight bus down. My ex and I still kept in touch and still spoke about what had happened all the time. It was horrible, it was like torture, it just never goes away. It still doesn’t go away.
“About a year later I moved back up to Scotland and this is when I read something that really woke me up. I read an article about rape victims, written by rape victims. It was basically about the importance of reporting these things to the police as without more people coming forward it’s hard to change things –and things definitely need to change. The main thing that made me want to report it at the time was reading about the possibility of him doing this to somebody else. I had not thought about that possibility before. I went to the police station at 11pm and I knew I had to do it immediately or I would change my mind. As bizarre as it sounds, I spoke to my ex before I went to the police to tell him that I had to do something about it and I told him about the detrimental effect it was still having on my mental health. He told me he needed to, “man up” and take responsibility, and that if I needed to go to the police then that’s fine. It was a very different story when I actually went to the police and did report it.
“I had my statement taken at the police station. They take a statement from you multiple times and you have to go back many times to confirm/review your statement. Mine was not recorded, it was written down by someone and every time I reviewed it there were mistakes in it which I had to correct. They were also very specific about what I was allowed to include in my statement and what I wasn’t allowed to include. For example, he had told me why he had done it, he had told me he didn’t feel like I was “his” anymore. I was told it was irrelevant. It was many weeks after I had given my statement that I finally received a call telling me that he had been arrested and let out on bail. He refused to give a statement and just repeated “no comment” to any questions he was asked. I feel it’s important to add here that he is a middle class, wealthy, white man with his own expensive lawyer; he is basically untouchable.
“The witnesses were then both questioned . They both gave statements and both of their statements said that he (my ex) had gone to them and told them he had “gone too far”. Both of their stories matched each other’s and more importantly both of their stories matched mine. I think this is a big factor in why this made it to court. It is incredibly difficult for something to go to court because if they think that there is not enough evidence they will not take it any further. This does not mean by any means that anyone is innocent, it just means that they don’t have enough evidence for a conviction. They never made any attempt to contact my witness.
“I finally received a call saying that they had enough evidence and it was going to be taken to High Court. There were several months of waiting and he (my ex) had one hearing in which he plead not guilty. I feel I was really naive at this time and I genuinely thought that he was going to take responsibility for what he had done like he said he would.
“We got a court date for June 2014. In the time I was waiting I had to review my statement a number of times again with the Procurator Fiscal. I also had a meeting with someone to ask how I would like to appear in court. There are options that can be given to the witness; you can sit behind a curtain to give evidence, you can do it via video link, or you can be in the stand as normal but you can have a support person sitting with you while you are there. I went for the third option as I really wanted to face him. I thought that if he saw me speaking he wouldn’t be able to lie. I also had a meeting leading up to this time about the kind of things they were going to try and use against me in court. I was told that they were going to try and say that what had happened was part of some weird sexual game.
“The court date finally came. I was petrified of taking the stand. When you arrive in court as a witness they take you to a small private family room. You and whoever has come with you sit in there until you are called. In this instance the court was closed while I gave my evidence and then open for the rest of the trial, so my parents weren’t allowed to enter while I did my part. I know that this seems silly now but no one had told me that my ex would be in the room as I gave my evidence; the way they had described a closed court to me would be that it would just be me, the jury, the judge, procurator fiscal and his lawyer in the room. I wasn’t even aware that he (my ex) was in the room until I was asked to point him out. It threw me off and made me panic. The entire experience of being in the stand is hideous. I told the court what had happened and then I was questioned by the defence lawyer. I was shouted at and called a liar and a silly little girl. He said that I should have forced him off of me, and that if this had really happened I would have ran to the police station immediately. He smirked at me every time I spoke and he called me manipulative. When he asked why I hadn’t fought him off I replied, “I was terrified”. He laughed at me and said, “terrified of your own boyfriend?” I stood there crying whilst trying to defend myself but each time I tried to answer back the Judge would tell me to stop talking.
“The case ran for three days in total. The first day was my evidence and one of his witnesses. The witness on day one said that my ex had told him that he had gone too far and that yes, rape is what they were talking about. The witness solidified my story and both of our stories matched. So far it was looking quite promising that we would get a good result.
“Day two the second witness spoke. In his original statement to the police he had the same story as me and the first witness, however when he was on the stand he said that he had been forced to give that statement and that he takes it all back. He said that the Government were trying to use my ex as an example and then he started crying and saying he wanted to go home to his mum! I thought that this was great because surely he wouldn’t be taken seriously. After that, the police officer who took his statement took the stand to confirm that yes, those were the witness’s own words, he was not forced to say anything, and that he came of his own free will. Again I thought that this was a good thing because surely the Jury in a court would listen to the police officer who took the statement over the witness who was clearly lying. I was wrong.
“On the third day my ex took the stand. This is where I feel things are more disappointing than I can possibly put into words, and I know that this is an incredibly common thing that happens in rape cases. My ex was asked, “how are you today? Tell me about your family. You went to a good school didn’t you? You are working hard towards getting a degree aren’t you?” He was told that he was a good member of society, a gentleman, and even told that he was dressed very well for the trial. I was looked down upon when I gave my job title, I wasn’t asked what school I went to, I wasn’t asked about my family and I wasn’t told that I was a good member of society. Nothing derogatory was even said to him when the procurator fiscal was questioning him. When he took the stand he smiled politely, didn’t get upset, spoke of me as if I was someone to pity, kept referring to me as his “girlfriend” and then going, “oops, sorry I mean ex girlfriend.” He had been incredibly well prepped by his defence lawyer. His attitude and ability to lie in such a cold way upset me more than anything.
“Once everyone has taken the stand the procurator fiscal and defence lawyer both make speeches to the Jury to try and help them make a decision. The Judge also gives a speech to the Jury. I feel like it’s important to mention that the Judge for my case was an older man. From the minute I entered the court I felt unfairly looked upon by him. In his speech to the Jury he said that me and my ex were in a, “dedicated and loving relationship that had lasted for years, so could this really be true?” He also said that the Jury were not allowed to take into account the second witnesses statement as he is saying he did not say those things, so it has to be written off completely. The Jury were told that there were two people in the room when this incident happened. If they cannot be 100% sure that this happened then they can not find the defendant guilty.
The Jury’s verdict was not guilty.
“The second that this verdict is found I was completely on my own as far as professional support goes. I had a support person who sat with me throughout the whole procedure and she literally vanished as soon as the verdict was given. I didn’t see her again.You are left to just go home and get on with things.
“If I was to try and give any advice to rape victims, I would say to please try and take care of yourself as soon as you can. Open up to people closest to you, this can be hard but it’s harder to stay quiet. Rape is something that stays with you for the rest of your life but it certainly doesn’t have to define you. Unfortunately you can fall into patterns of self harm; I got involved with a hideous person after this who was heavily abusive. I didn’t realise that this was a form of self harm because I was so miserable about what had happened. It is never your fault and it doesn’t make you “damaged goods”. There is still so much stigma around coming out as a victim of rape but I don’t understand why. You haven’t done anything wrong and it should be no reflection on you or your character. The more people speak out then hopefully the more changes can be made in the way rape cases are dealt with by the criminal justice system.”
For anyone who has experienced sexual violence, Rape Crisis is an organisation with centres in Scotland, England and Wales. They offer support and information about where your nearest centre may be if you need urgent care: rapecrisis.org.uk/centres.php You can also call the national helpline number: 0808 802 9999 / Scotland: www.rapecrisisscotland.org.uk and a Scottish helpline: 08088 01 03 02
The Women & Girls Network are an organisation based in London who offer counselling services, advocacy support and telephone counselling. All information can be found on their website: www.wgn.org.uk and they also have a phone number which deals with practical support: 0808 801 0660. If you are in need of emotional support and an anonymous space to talk call: 0808 801 0770.