Sewing tattoos into skin: Laura Taylor

Laura ‘LAET’ Taylor creates sensationally beautiful tattoos at Sri Yantra Tattoo, Oakland California. We chat to the artist about her craft and inclusivity within the tattoo world

You describe yourself as a skin seamstress, can you tell us a more about this? I started using my mother’s sewing machine at around five years old. One day, she sat me down in front of her sewing machine, and as I picked up the machine technique, I discovered that I found machine sewing enjoyable. I would make quilts and clothes, little projects that grew into big projects, experimenting with a variety of fabrics and bold colours as I went along.

Fast forward 15 years, I went to Central Saint Martins school of Art and Design in London, a place that celebrates courageous free-thinkers and creative innovators. Going to that art school was a game changer for me. I felt seen by the staff and inspired. Being at CSM made me realise my passion for textiles was a legitimate endeavour, as I saw the same spark amongst the textiles students. I studied illustration there, and was able to work on my draftsmanship. I’ve always been looking for a creative space that combines my love of drawing and technical sewing with textiles. Tattooing has become that space for me. The intricacies of my tattoo designs often feel like embroidery as I am constructing them, and so the term ‘Skin Seamstress’ came to mind and has stuck with me.

How long have you been tattooing and what drew you to the industry? This year (2020) will be my 18th year in tattooing. It’s a pretty surreal feeling. I’m in my 30s and I’ve already been tattooing for over half of my life. It’s weird. I’ve been tattooing for far less time than a lot of folks, but a lot longer than others. Enough time to see enormous shifts and passing trends.

I’d say I prefer the way things are headed. A little more conscious, a bit more inclusive. It keeps the bar high, with artists producing higher quality work along with happier clientele.

The experience that drew me to tattooing was the first time I saw a tattoo on a person. It was the ’90s era of London, England, outside the Commonwealth Institute on Kensington High Street. I saw a woman walking towards me on the street. She had a huge red mohawk, fully sleeved up, and Doc Martens. She owned that road with her presence, and her confidence shone. I was four years old. I decided right there and then that I would tattoo.

How would you describe your experiences as woman tattooer, especially in the light of recent events within the industry? I would say that things have improved, slowly but surely. The industry is witnessing shifts as the cultural conversation progresses and society moves forward. Being a woman in this industry used to put you in a minority group, but equally that gives you more chance to make a difference and lead for the change you’d like to see. I believe in equality, I believe we are getting there one conversation at a time. I see changes and I remain hopeful, and as always, empowered.

What does tattooing mean to you? Both the work you create and the tattoos on your own body. Freedom. Tattooing is freedom to me. Artistic expression and freedom. Something worth striving for. A great aspect of tattooing is the ability to travel with your job. Tattooing opened up opportunities for me to move to the United States, and develop my skills in more depth. The work I create is heavily influenced by my love of textiles and nature. People will ask me for my flowers, which I will never tire of! Nature is a brilliant resource and teaches us so much.

I personally have a collection of blackwork from about 15 different artists from the UK and the states. Some is ornamental blackwork, some is very gothic blackwork, some is dotwork, and some is punk style/prison style blackwork.

How would you describe your style? What inspires your creations? My style is intricate and detailed for sure. Clients will approach me asking for large-scale pieces, and to keep things intricate. I’d say this is where my seamstress tendencies come into action; often my tattoos look like textiles on skin. I am inspired by my biracial heritage too. I grew up in a British multi-racial household with a variety of vibrant cultures surrounding me. I try to allow this to flow through me into my work.

What do you love to tattoo and what would you like to do more of? Nature is always going to be a favourite theme for me. It offers up endless possibilities. I’m always down to tattoo floral tattoos.

Growing up in London, I felt the medieval and gothic architecture of the city calling me. I’m a Camden Town goth chick for sure, and spent a lot of time in the London goth scene as a teenager. Over the years I can see those style tendencies come through in my work. So anything gothic will always speak to me personally.

We love your rich, opulent colour palette, do you prefer to work in colour or black and grey, or is this like choosing a favourite tattoo – impossible? Tough question! When I tattooed in London, I was known for gothic ornate blackwork. Clients would mainly ask me for black and grey. I was expanding on the celestial style sun and moon pieces I like to do, and I’d tattoo a lot of depictions of tarot cards. Once I started travelling to the states, I’d already done some vibrant pieces. Mainly tattoos of brightly coloured peonies or chrysanthemums. I started receiving a lot more interest in my colour work, once I came to the States. I guess the colour thing really took off. It’s pretty cool, looking back on that, to think about how much my colour style blew up, even after I was known for a completely different style.

We’ve heard than many tattooers may often refuse to tattoo dark skin, is this something you have experienced? If you do not know how to tattoo all skin tones within society, you do not know how to tattoo. So you’d better learn. Tattoos look brilliant on black and brown skin tones. If you don’t know how to display your work on these tones, you are missing out. 

How can we make the tattoo scene more inclusive? What changes would you like to see, do you have any advice for black artists? I think that some important steps forward are being made. I don’t believe overall that tattooing is the racist place it used to be. Tattooing reflects society, and as society continues to be diverse, so should tattooing. Accepting this, is a simple but huge step forward. I would encourage any black artist with a passion for the craft to get involved. It is hard work, you must be committed, but it is also a birthright and something to be very proud of. 

Is it important that we call out cultural appropriation when we see it? How can people who profit from this turn things around? I’ve been watching cultural appropriation get worse (especially in England, as we are not taught about our colonial empire building heritage) I used to think it was not important, but now I’ve seen where it has lead us, and as the cultural conversation progresses I’d like it to be more considered. Just think about the marginalised cultures that do not benefit. Tattooing is alive within society, we exist because of our diverse clientele, and I would like to see tattooing reflect and be respectful to that. 

The black womxn tattooers you need to follow right now

For too long the tattoo world has been a racist place to be. There are so many incredible artists but they’re often not given the space they deserve in magazines, conventions and on Instagram. We’re heard stories of tattooers turning clients away because of the colour of their skin, as they don’t know how to tattoo black skin and are unwilling to learn.

We want to help amplify and raise marginalised voices through Things&Ink, and that includes POC tattooers. We’re shining a light of the incredible black womxn in this industry who are showing you exactly how it’s done…

@laet_tattoo

We absolutely love Laet’s floral designs, which mould to the body as if these petals and leaves grew there all along.

@humblebeetattoo

Soft yet powerful, Brittany’s tattoos often depict strong women mixed with delicate florals for a beautiful effect.

@jadechanelp

Fine lines and delicate shading come together into tattoos that portray the artist’s power and strength. Who said delicate couldn’t be tough?

@jalenfrizzell

Fierce tattoos showing black femmes from all ages, make sure you check out her disco-inspired portraits.

@yesrainforest

Delicate ornamental, floral and nature inspired handpoked tattoos with magical auras.

@phylotattoos

We love the way bold lines and florals are woven together in the ornamental tattoos of Phylo.

@ahadejia

Showing us how colour, bold lines and negative space are meant to be tattooed.

@flesh_and_fluid

An artists that draws from sacred geometry to bring you intricate tattoos that also have protective elements for the wearer.

@americandebbie

Mini tattoos are our fave, finger tattoos are our fave! We’re loving how much fun these curated hand tattoos are, oh and those nails!

@leanneckerr

Pouring big femme energy into her delicate floral pattern-work tattoos, we love the flow in these pieces.

@finest_trash_ink

No truer contradiction than girly and traditional, we love when these genres mix. Cierra shows us that glitter and scorpions belong together.

Apprentice love: Heavy Petal

We first shared Stevie’s beautiful tattooed hand print on Instagram back in December, and ever since we’ve known we had to find out more about the artist behind the artwork. Currently in the early stages of her tattoo apprenticeship at Union Street Tattoo in Devon, Stevie is definitely one to watch!

How long have you been apprenticing? How did you get your apprenticeship?
I started my apprenticeship in October 2019. I’ve always wanted to get into tattooing! I originally started building up a portfolio back in 2014 but unfortunately it wasn’t the right time for me. I had a couple of office jobs but I just really wanted to get into something creative. So I started doing a bit of freelance illustration and greeting card designing in 2017 alongside my day job.

But in 2019, circumstances had changed with my job so I started building up my portfolio for an apprenticeship again! I saw that Union Street Tattoo were advertising for an apprentice, so I popped along with my portfolio and had a lovely chat with the owner, Mark Breed, who later introduced me to Forest Lewis and they offered me the apprenticeship! They’ve both been so welcoming and helpful, it finally all clicked into place, I’m still so stoked!

What advice would you give to anyone wanting to start in the tattoo industry?
Really work on making your portfolio the best it can be! Draw lots and include different styles whilst making the portfolio itself super presentable. Do your research on the tattoo industry and it’s history! Ask for help and advice if you need it.

We love the traditional nature of your work, is this a genre you draw inspiration from?
Definitely, I love traditional tattoos and their history. Traditional tattoos look so clean and bold and bright, I love that. Flowers and colours are also a big inspiration!

How would you describe your style and where would you like to take it?
Bold and colourful! I really love experimenting with different colour palettes. I use a lot of pinks! I’ve tried to not always go for pinks but I love it! I’m really looking forward to trying different styles once I’m tattooing properly, though. In particular dot work, fine line botanical pieces and mandalas.

What do you like to tattoo and what would you like to do more of?
I haven’t actually started tattooing properly yet. So it’s hard to say at this stage. I’ve only done just over a handful of tattoos so far, mainly on myself. A lot of flowers though!

The illustrated hand print we shared on our Instagram

Can you tell us about your own tattoo collection. Do you have a favourite or a list of tattooers you want to get work by?
The majority of my tattoos are by the lovely Gem Carter. I got my first tattoo from Gem when I was 18. I often travel up to her beautiful studio, Black Rose, in North Devon for more! I love every single one! I also have one of Kelly Smith’s peonies and one of Chloe O’Malley’s floral bouquets, I adore both pieces! There are so many other tattooers I’d love to get work by in the future. Including Cassandra Frances, Rabtattoo, Rebecca Vincent and Leonie New, to name a few!

Have tattoos altered how you feel about your body at all?
Definitely! I’ve always struggled with my self esteem and body confidence. Having tattoos has helped me feel more confident in my own skin.

The more I get, the more I admire that my body is all mine to decorate.

New tattoo anxiety: How long before your appointment should you see the design?

It makes sense that when getting tattooed you’ve chosen that particular artist because you love their work and want something in their style. Maybe you’ve followed them on Instagram for a while, loved all their posts, read interviews and checked healed work. You know that they produce great tattoos, their work is solid and, from what you can tell, they’re a nice person. So what’s the problem, why do you feel uneasy when looking at the tattoo design?

We’ve probably all had that moment when you see the design of your new tattoo for the first time and that not-quite-sure, something-isn’t-right feeling arises? Or maybe you’re being shown your finished tattoo in the mirror before it’s wrapped up? Perhaps before the tattoo you’re tired from travelling or getting tattooed by someone you’ve never met flares your anxiety, on the other hand after a session you’re sore and groggy, your tattoo brain has definitely set in and all you can think about is getting some food and getting home. Sound familiar?

Does how comfortable you feel with the tattoo about to be etched on you, or the one just completed, all come down to timing? Should you see the design at the start of your appointment, the night before, a week before? When exactly should you see the tattoo design to make sure that it’s what you want and what the artist is happy to create?

I know many artists may hold back because they fear you won’t show up for your appointment and may even take the design to another artist. While they may not email you the design, there are usually opportunities to visit the studio and see your new piece in person, just ask your tattooer. However, if you’re like me and regularly get tattooed hours away from home, this isn’t always easy.

There’s also the thought amongst tattoo artists that a client may try to micro-manage the whole tattoo process. They could worry that after they have translated your ideas into a workable tattoo that will stand the test of time, you’ll see the sketch and make way too many additions and changes that will render the design now unworkable and unsuitable as a tattoo. It may be hard to hear when a tattooist tells you that your ideas may not work, but really a good artist will have the experience and know-how to give you the best tattoo they can. It may be best to trust their judgement even if this means seeing your design at your tattoo appointment. I’ve found that more than often not the artist has drawn a few examples and sizes so we can play around with placement, or they’re happy to make a couple of small changes if needed.

If you see the design a few days in advance, could you overthink the whole thing? Rather than have time to sit and settle with the tattoo, instead you pick it apart and completely change your mind. No longer are you excited but a little frantic, not even sure that the tattoo will become part of you like so many have done before. This is where seeing the tattoo the night before or at your appointment can be helpful. It’s that balance between exciting and nerve-wracking, surely that feeling is why a lot of us get tattooed?

You’ll also find that the tattoo changes and comes to life as it’s being tattooed, it’s unlikely that you can tell exactly what it will look like from the drawing. Especially if you’ve chosen to add colour and the sketch is in black and grey. For someone who gets a little anxious I’m often telling the artist to choose the colours, do what you like, so my tattoos can be a real surprise! And this is usually a positive thing. I say this because I trust them, I trust that my past self chose them for this tattoo. It will be amazing, I just have to hold space for the tattoo magic to happen.

Surely the more tattoos you have the less it matters, right? Just slap it on, fill that gap. Does this attitude change if you have less or more tattoos? I can only talk from my experience as a heavily tattooed woman, by now, with the amount of tattoos I have they almost blend into one, each new one, as it heals becomes no more significant than the rest. So really does it matter when I see the design, because my skin is a welcoming home anyway.

Thank you to everyone who answered my Instagram stories around this question, your thoughts and voices have helped to mould this piece.
Rosalie Hurr

Elementary Scents – The tattoos behind the start-up

Created by best friends Becky and Steve, Elementary, are 100% natural parfums, brewed in the UK. They’re proud to be zero-waste, vegan and cruelty-free, and not afraid to be a little bit different. We caught up with Becky to hear all about her tattoo collection and the inspiration behind Elementary.

I’ve always been a massive nature nerd (and proud of it) and have been fascinated by tattoos for as long as I can remember. Being mixed raced in a predominately white school, I often struggled to accept my skin growing up, and at times felt like the odd one out.

Tattoos have become such a cathartic outlet for me and a way to embrace who I am.

That, and the freedom of nature, have had a huge impact on my life, as well as helping to shape our vision for Elementary. We launched in December last year and we’re a small, indie brand making 100% natural, unisex fragrances.

Swallow – My first tattoo. I heard Alice on the ‘Outside In’ podcast recently and she mentioned that “it’s a right of passage to have a shit first tattoo experience”. I couldn’t agree more! Done in my early twenties; I was left waiting for hours, sat sweating during the whole process and ended up with a tattoo more cutesy than Sailor Jerry, and some script that looks more like ‘familu’ than ‘family’. I don’t regret it though, and it’s paved the way for the rest of my ink.

Lotus and Hamsa – They may be teeny, but these guys mean a lot. I’m quite a spiritual person and love what they symbolise. They were done by Abi Tonge who was a tattoo apprentice at the time. She’s gone on to do some amazing things, which is just awesome. Both Steve and I are both big into mindfulness and really welcome this into our vision for Elementary. Although we create fragrances, we believe it’s so much more than just smelling great.

Nature scene – A little reminder of my love of nature and how it can make you feel. Mountains, trees and fresh air. Is there anything better? This piece reflects a huge part of our concept for Elementary; that reconnection to nature, feeling inspired and free.

Robin and envelope – This tattoo sparked my thigh collection and was brought to life by Josie Hall who’s since become a good friend and my ‘official’ tattooist. It has a strong emotional meaning, as I had it done shortly after my nan passed away in 2012. The envelope signifies a way to always keep in touch, and I think most of us remember a loved one when we see a robin, don’t we? I love this tattoo.

Crying heart – A crying heart usually symbolises heartbreak, but for me, it’s a reminder to always look after my mental health and accept that it’s ok to feel a little sad sometimes. Wellbeing is something we’re really keen to talk about – let’s be open and accepting of our feelings. Our scents have a super high concentration of essential oils, giving them aromatherapeutic qualities, which is such a great and simple way to get a little boost.

Peony and sweet peas – Both of these tattoos were done for people that I’m so grateful to have in my life. Pretty much anyone that knows me, will be aware just how much I ADORE my nan. A few years ago she gave me a cutting from her peony and it blooms every single year. I love it and I love her, so now I have a peony that lasts all year round. She’s 96 and loves this tattoo. She’s very cool.

My mum has always called me Sweetpea and grows them each year. Last year she went through a lot and it was a really scary time. I got this as a constant reminder of her strength and beauty. She’s not too keen on tattoos but was actually pretty tearful when I showed her this, which is lovely.

Bee and forget-me-nots – Not much explanation needed for this one – bees are incredible and so important to our ecosystem. Without them, we’d be pretty screwed! They’re also extremely beautiful, and the fluffy ones are just wonderful (and damn cute).

Ship in a bottle, exotic lady, ‘You’re so cool’ – I’m a firm believer that not all tattoos need to have a meaning behind them. And these three don’t. They’re some of my favourite pieces and I got them simply because I wanted them. (If you don’t get the film reference we can’t be friends).

And lastly…herb – A spontaneous little guy that I got with Steve not so long ago. We were working away and managed to find a tattoo studio that was open in the morning, on a Sunday, and did walk-ins. We both love dinosaurs (why wouldn’t you?) so I got this, he got a raptor. It’s honestly such a cool experience getting tattooed with your best mate, and it’s basically cemented our friendship forever.