“I’m often inspired by the unique ideas that my clients bring to the table,” interview with tattoo artist Nonlee

Her career in tattooing was sparked by an encounter that changed up her thinking. Here, tattoo artist Jungyeon Kim ( known as Nonlee / @non_lee_ink ) shares her story. And how she morphed her style into the incredible ethereal tattoos she creates today at Ziho Gallery in Seoul, South Korea. Grab yourself a cuppa and settle in for the journey.

What made you fall in love with tattoos?

Before becoming a tattoo artist, I spent nine years teaching students watercolour painting and pencil drawing. One day, a student came to my art class with a unique request: he wanted to learn basic drawing skills to pursue a career in tattooing. While I had personal experience with tattoos, I’d never considered becoming a tattoo artist myself.

This encounter sparked a new interest in me. Even though I found joy in teaching and seeing my students succeed, I always yearned to create art for myself. The pandemic, despite its challenges, provided me with the opportunity to explore new avenues.

Jungyeon Kim (Nonlee)

Your background is in art and teaching, what drew you to this in the first place?

I began teaching art out of necessity. Like many art students, I needed a part-time job to support my tuition and art supplies. Having graduated from an art high school, I had a strong foundation and was able to earn a higher hourly rate. Even after graduating from university, I continued teaching because I enjoyed the interaction with students and the work was a good fit for my outgoing personality.

With your teaching experience, would you ever consider having an apprentice?

I have prior experience teaching tattooing. I currently work with tattooist Ziho at Ziho Gallery in Seoul, Korea. We occasionally hold tattoo workshops. While Ziho primarily leads these workshops, I’ve assisted him and co-taught on several occasions.

Tell us more about the studio, what’s it like?

The studio houses a diverse group of artists, and I find it both beneficial and enjoyable to collaborate with individuals who share similar styles and genres.

How long have you been tattooing for?

I began my tattooing journey in March 2021 under the mentorship of renowned tattoo artist Ziho. I wanted to maximise my artistic potential and create a style that best showcased my abilities.

We love your tattoos, can you tell us about your own tattoo collection?

I have around 17 tattoos. While I cherish them all, three hold a special place in my heart. The most recent one, which has just healed, is florals from @sian_ttt. The second one is a beautifully recreated moth tattoo done by @n.o.u.v.e.a.u. And the third one was done by @oozy_tattoo, one of the artists who inspired me to start tattooing.

Your work has a magical quality to it – ethereal and beautiful – how would you describe it?

My style is primarily based on hyperrealism but leans towards botanical illustration. The most distinctive feature of my tattoos is the use of vibrant and bold colours.

My background in fine art allows me to incorporate elements of oil painting and watercolour techniques into my tattoos, resulting in a unique style that sets me apart from traditional tattoo artists.

Have you always painted?

My undergraduate major was sculpture. However, I’ve also explored two-dimensional mediums such as painting and printmaking. While I’m currently focused on tattooing, my sculptural background has given me a strong foundation in three-dimensional form and light and shadow, which I believe enhances my tattoo designs.

Where does your inspiration come from?

Nature is my biggest source of inspiration. Everything in nature can be a subject for my tattoos. I often go bush walking, visit the beach to observe marine life, or simply explore my surroundings. I spend a lot of time photographing plants in my neighbourhood, especially during spring and summer.

How do you like to work with customers? Do you do mostly custom work or flash too?

I primarily create custom designs tailored to each individual client. I enjoy exploring new subject matter, and I’m often inspired by the unique ideas that my clients bring to the table. However, I also create flash designs, which allow me to explore my own personal interests.

What’s next for you? How would you like your work and style to progress?

I’m interested in gradually transitioning to larger-scale projects. As an artist who pays meticulous attention to detail, I am exploring ways to maintain a high level of detail while scaling up my work.

Do you ever do guest spots and how do we book in?

I announce the dates and locations of my guest spots on Instagram. I usually post this information one to two months in advance, so it’s best to follow my account for updates. In countries where there is potentially a large customer base, spots can fill up within a week.

Make sure to follow Nonlee on Instagram @non_lee_ink for more tattoos and to book yours.

We’re always talking to amazing tattoo artists, check out our latest interviews.

“The scene is filled with free-thinking, warm and downright cool people” – Continuous Portrait Project

About five years ago, Cameron Rennie bought an analogue camera from a vintage photography shop in his hometown of Edinburgh. He challenged himself to take ten portraits of his mates. They ended up being mostly heavily tattooed people. Seeing their images in black and white, something clicked aesthetically for Rennie. And so The Continuous Portrait Project was born on Instagram. Photos of people connected to the tattoo world, he wanted to capture its beautiful diversity.

Rennie travels all over the UK to meet tattooers to photograph while they chat. And this blog is an extract from Rennie’s brand new book, The Continuous Portrait Project, which is a selection of his favourite photos – along with a blurb of his memories of the meeting – a moment in time, if you will. Dive in and then buy the book…

words and photos: Cameron Rennie

EMILY COLLINS

Emily and I met at The Big North Tattoo Show in Newcastle, where she is based. At the time, she was running her brand called Rock & Rose Motel, which focuses on making prints and homeware using traditional American tattoo designs.

Around the time this photo was taken, Emily was beginning her apprenticeship at Blind Tiger Tattoo. If her designs from Rock & Rose are anything to go by, I’m sure she will make a fantastic tattooer; her passion and drawing ability are already both there. By the time this book comes out, she’ll be smashing it!

JADE CLARK

Jade’s roots in tattooing are grounded and traditional, which makes her work accessible and accommodating of so many different styles. There’s a real celebration in her work of all styles and interests, and I think this is a great reflection of who Jade is.

Jade’s ability to speak openly and honestly about issues faced in tattooing from underrepresented communities is considered and poignant. It’s been noticed by other outlets as well, as she’s taken to podcasts and panel discussions to continue these important discussions. This, combined with her huge personality, makes her an outstanding person to hang out with. She’s an asset to tattooing and symbolises what is so special about the UK tattoo scene.

KAT HARDY AND EION

Kat Hardy is a tattooer in Bangor, Northern Ireland, who runs the studio Four Oracles Tattoo. Her style blends neotraditional tattooing with dark and romantic elements. She’s also known as a go-to tattooer for rockstars, having tattooed numerous punk musicians. Not only does she tattoo the band members themselves, but she also has a real talent for creating designs that sympathetically reference the music and lyrics.

We opted to take Kat’s portrait in the grounds of Belfast’s botanical gardens. Kat came to meet me with her partner Eion, who I also found an instant connection with. While the shots of her on her own are stunning, I chose this image of the couple together – not only is it a fantastic shot, but it also serves as a reminder of a wonderful time.

NIKKI KOTECHA

Nikki is a Desi tattooer and motorbike enthusiast from London. We met at Regents Park on a scorching summer day, to talk about life, tattooing, and everything in between. When talking about the stigma of tattooing, I felt privileged to hear Nikki’s journey into tattooing and the struggles she has endured to follow her dream.

As our conversation deepened, I spoke about my experiences and thoughts on how I feel there is an unseen force that steers me to meeting certain people. Nikki told me how, in Indian culture, a person’s true purpose is also known as Dharma. This conversation also felt that it had been ‘steered’, as it was at a point in the project where I finally knew what I was put here to do. Although our conversation was brief, it was incredibly deep and meaningful.

RIZZA BOO

After initially meeting Rizza at the Brighton Tattoo Convention, we arranged to meet up for these photos in Glasgow, at her studio Shadow Work. Rizza is a truly special person, not only in her artistry but also as an avid campaigner in highlighting issues experienced by people of colour within the context of tattooing. In addition to this tireless and emotionally-labouring work, Rizza gave critical feedback and took the lead on developing the exhibition Tattoo: British Tattoo Art Revealed, Reclaiming the Narrative in 2022, to include the representation of people of colour.

Rizza is a deep thinker and someone I find very easy to get lost in conversation with. This photo was taken while her friend and fellow tattooer Lord Montana Blue was guesting with her. I was lucky enough to capture them in the midst of tattooing each other; I hope what I captured shows their mutual respect and admiration.

You can order the book from: kntpublishing.bigcartel.com/product/the-continuous-portrait-project

Launch party on Weds 5 Feb at Flamin’ Eight in Camden, London, info on Instagram

“This is the story of teaching myself to tattoo in the male-dominated environment of the 1980s – when women were not welcome in tattoo shops,” tattoo artist Pym Avery

Pym Avery started tattooing back in the ’80s. She wasn’t welcome. It didn’t stop her. She’s still tattooing now, although not fulltime. She’s just written a book, Show Time, documenting the decades of her life that she dedicated to teaching herself to tattoo. Breaking down barriers along the way. This is her story…

“I started tattooing on the road in Europe in 1987, when I was 19 years old. I’ve since travelled all over the world and worked in many places; it has been one long and amazing adventure. In that time, I watched the tattoo trade evolve from a shadowy ill-respected environment to a multi-billion-dollar industry.”

“There were only a few women tattooing during the ‘80s and ‘90s, mostly in North America. I met one of those pioneers, Madame Vyvyn Lazonga, in Seattle in the early 2000s and she suggested that I should write a book about my early days. At the time, I thought that no one would read such a story, but the seed stayed in my mind until 2024 when I decided to stop talking about writing a book and just do it.

First known photo of Pym tattooing. Festival de la Sainte Anne,France 1992.
Photo credit Rafael Helle

“It was hard to get away from my daily grind and all its distractions but I found an opportunity house-sitting for friends on a remote island in the Caribbean where I didn’t know anybody and spent three weeks immersing myself in the memories of the ‘80s and ‘90s – the ‘Golden Age’ of tattooing as some call it – and putting it all down in black and white.  

“Trying to find a title wasn’t easy, but I settled on Show Time because that was always what I called going to work; game face, even if you are not quite feeling it! It also fit well with the carnival and convention scenes that I worked in during that time. I then self-published the book using independent small businesses. 

Tattooing at a motorcycle rally in Northern Germany 1992

Show Time is the story of teaching myself to tattoo in the male-dominated environment of the 1980s in Europe – when women were not welcome in tattoo shops. I became interested in learning to tattoo in 1987 after I met a traveling tattoo artist in the South of Spain, who informed me that women do not do tattoos when I asked him to teach me. I was very curious about both the ability to earn money from art while travelling and why women would not be able to do it.  

German convention 1995

“At that time the tattoo scene, such as it was, was the domain of bikers and ‘manly men’ and there were indeed very few females practicing the art. It was almost impossible to learn any information about it without being connected, and very impossible to buy supplies as there were so few tattooers that everybody knew everybody else or at least knew of them. There was no internet or social media, and only a handful of suppliers worldwide. Orders were made by phone and arrived weeks later. Apprenticeships were almost impossible to find, the tattoo trade and its secrets were heavily protected against infiltration by rank outsiders; you had to know someone who knew someone.  

“It was a huge challenge, and I was determined to rise to it, but once I had acquired the necessary equipment to do the job, I would find out that the general public did not think that women could do tattoos either.  

Newspaper article from a Swiss convention 1995. ‘A man’s profession.’

“Traveling in Europe tattooing out of my small van, I finally managed to find a way to break the ice and was loosely adopted by the Feria or carnival which made the rounds of Southern Spain each year. After tattooing with the Feria for a while, I made my way into tattoo shops and access to the information I needed to round out my tattooing ability.

“As my career evolved, I became a part of the ‘90s international tattoo convention scene, which was a superhighway of information and learning, as well as the time at which tattooing began to break out of the Dark Ages and become a recognised art form worldwide. I opened my first tattoo shop in Germany in 1995. 

Pym and Titine Leu. Convention in Lausanne circa 1995

“The book itself, aside from being my personal story, is intended to be an inspiration for anybody wanting to become a tattoo artist despite all the pitfalls. The fact that the equipment and the necessary information for using it properly is now widely available does not bypass all the personal struggles, the challenges of dealing with the client’s expectations, or the self-employed aspects of the business. I wanted to give that perspective from my point of view, despite the fact that times have changed so radically. I think it is still valid. I also wanted to mention the women who had come before me, because I know that what they had to deal with was incrementally harder than what I faced, and I feel that we all owe them a lot of respect for that.  

“When tattoo conventions became popular in Europe in the 1990s, there were only a few female tattoo artists working at them, and we experienced a lot of disrespect from both sides of the booth. TV, radio, and newspaper interviews began to focus on the female tattooers and then we became published in magazines, and finally the disrespect began to melt away. It took a lot of determination and thick skin, but by the mid ‘90s, women had their own shops and were finally being recognised for their contribution to the trade.  

With Arno and Xed LeHead at Red Dragon Tattoo, Neustadt, Germany 1998

“As the internet began to become accessible to all, bridges could be built more easily across the world, and the barriers to women in the tattoo business as well as its overall male stranglehold began to come down quickly. The advent of TV shows about tattooing and the popularity of Kat Von D saw a dramatic increase in the numbers of women in the trade in the early to mid 2000s and I suspect encouraged a lot of the new generation of women, who were young girls at the time. My book does not cover any of this more recent time period as I left Europe in 2000 and moved to the United States, which seemed like a good point to finish that part of the story.  

“Times and tattooing have definitely changed exponentially since the “Last Century.” I think for older tattoo artists, it is hard to stay relevant in this modern world dominated by social media, but I do feel that we can learn from the new generation in the same way that they can learn from us, through the exchange of ideas and a good communication base, which is now so much easier to achieve than the pre-internet days.

“I hope to change the direction of some of the narrative about Gatekeepers, which is becoming more prevalent on the internet by highlighting a lot of what my generation of tattooers went through to learn the tattoo trade with no easy access to information and equipment and explain what actual Gatekeeping looked like back then. There is very little comparison between how it was to get into tattooing then and now, but we are, after all, doing the same thing with the same goals.  

Sacramento, CA 2017. Photo credit James Novaes

“To me, the 1990s changed tattooing in the most substantial way, taking it to new levels and a fresh public perspective. Tattoo artists of the time tried, tested and investigated many different avenues of what tattoo machines could do in the skin and forged a solid path. That research and application opened the doors to many and varied machine types, needle groups, colours, techniques, and styles. Artists with college degrees and different perspectives have now taken it to a whole new level.  

“As for myself, I still work in all styles, as I have done since day one, so it is interesting to observe the evolution of it all and I am curious to see what the next decade brings. I do not tattoo full time anymore outside of conventions and guest spots, due to the toll that tattooing has taken on my body; it is real, folks! Look after your back and your hands!”

Pym with the first proof of her book, 2024

Signed copies of Show Time are available from showtimebook.bigcartel.com. Printed version, eBook as well as audiobook can be found online anywhere you get your books!  

Upside down tattoos: Which way up should I have my tattoo?

Everyone in the tattoo world has an opinion on this. So tattoo artist and owner of “Surrey’s best tattoo studio 2023” Laura Raña (@lifeininklr) weighs in on the debate… should your tattoo face you or those around you…?

Tattooing has been around for thousands of years. There have always been traditions and ‘rules’ that needed to be followed. And one general rule is that all designs should face the centre of the body – the heart.

For example, front thigh tattoos should face inwards towards each other. And top outer arms will face forward in the same direction the body faces.

Tattoo placement wasn’t always a choice. However, tattoos can now be placed wherever you want.

As a tattoo artist for almost eight years, I’ve had multiple discussions with clients and other tattoo artists about placement – what works and what doesn’t. And it seems to be a reccurring subject that causes huge disagreement and divides so many people time and time again.

So, does it really matter which way up your tattoo is facing? Should it be for you to see or for others to enjoy?

It depends on the subject, for example to invert a face, that we are all used to seeing in the typical position (eyes above the mouth) may be perceived as grotesque. If a face is upside down it may appear unfamiliar or even “wrong” to our brains.

This is because of the exposure effect. The image projected on to the back of our eyes is upside down. Our brain decodes this image so that we perceive it the right way up.

Whether a tattoo is upside down wouldn’t matter if a tattoo is solely for its owner and not for the eyes of those around us.

I have found that those who have just one or two tattoos tend to choose very significant designs. Sometimes, the collector doesn’t want to share these with other people. The tattoo may be a reminder of a lost loved one or a nudge to keep going despite any obstacles.

These tattoos might be so personal that actually it’s no concern of others to see or even comment on. It’s very important to the client to have them facing them. It doesn’t matter if they are seen as “upside down”. It’s also fair to say that it’s the individual’s right to choose the placement for those very reasons.

Following tradition

Most tattoo collectors like to follow the traditional rules of placing their tattoo so that it faces outwards and towards other people. The rules comes from the many tattoo artists before us, their ideology of what aesthetically is pleasing and what fits the flow of the body, always facing the heart.

Because it’s the way it’s always been, a lot of artists will refuse to break tradition and place a tattoo “the wrong way”. I’ve seen arguments between artists and clients about this several times. Neither side has wanted to give in, leaving the client very angry and the artist out of pocket.

Personally, I think we should follow the “rules” with such a longstanding form of expression that goes back to the beginning of civilisation. It seems only right to place designs so people can enjoy your chosen artwork. Aesthetically, it looks more appealing. But of course, I discuss this with every client that steps inside my studio.

Times are changing

But tattooing is moving away from old school, bold thick lines and there’s a new style in vogue: fineline super dainty style. Anything is possible, and more people know exactly what they want. They’re not willing to compromise and don’t care for other people’s opinions when it comes to their chosen body art.

The current trend of patchwork tattoos allows us to bend the “rules” slightly, too. Smaller stamp-like tattoos are placed angled with mismatched positioning which adds to the stickered sleeve effect and uniqueness.

Find the right artist

Ultimately, it’s up to the client and their preferences which way up the tattoo goes. But give it some thought before you head to the studio and mention it to your artist when you book in. I always give my clients the right to choose what makes them happy and to enjoy their tattoo – whichever way up it sits.

The idea of a right and wrong way also opens up discussions – once placed, the tattoo will always have a slight distortion on the body, as we aren’t poles … we taper and twist, so placed the right or wrong way up, the tattoo will still look slightly distorted depending on what position your body is in – begging the question, so does it really matter?

Ambigram tattoo design

If in doubt…

Get an ambigram tattoo. These are designs where different words or symbols can be read from different angles. They are designed with a special kind of symmetry or mirror effect. This allows the word to remain readable even when viewed upside down. Like others, you might enjoy getting them inked for their unique and sometimes mysterious look.

What do you think? Which way is the right way up? Let us know…

Make sure to follow Laura on Instagram and read our interview with her too.

Words and tattoos by: Laura Raña

Tattoo artist Lucy Thompson Speaks at TEDxNHS about free nipple tattoos for breast cancer survivors

Lucy Thompson speaks at TEDxNHS

Tattoo artist Lucy Thompson – who’s also an award winner, businesswoman and mother from Cullingworth in Bradford – recently received a standing ovation for her TEDxNHS talk discussing free nipple tattoos post mastectomy. She offers an alternative option to the NHS through her charity The Nipple Innovation Project

Lucy took the stage before an audience of 400, with millions more tuning in via live stream, to share her inspiring story of how her transformative tattoo work has become a lifeline for so many. After her talk, people lined up to speak with her, leaving Lucy deeply moved by how much her work resonates with others and grateful for the opportunity to share her message.

How The Nipple Innovation Project started

Lucy has been a tattoo artist since 2013 and started offering realistic areola tattoos to support women who have undergone breast cancer surgery. Her inspiration came from her aunt, who experienced a mastectomy, breast reconstruction, a nipple graft, and a tattoo in hospital.

Although her aunt recovered well, ten years after her diagnosis, the fading tattoo needed some love. The prospect of returning to the hospital felt daunting, and the impact on her body image deeply affected her self-esteem.

I asked her what it would mean to her to have this tattoo looking more realistic and she said it would help her feel whole again,” Lucy tells us. “After the trauma of going through cancer, I want to make the restorative period as stress-free as possible and help women feel like themselves again, drawing a line under the arduous journey theyve been through. Why should they have to return for future treatment when it can be done in one process?

Driven by a strong passion for finding a better way, Lucy took matters into her own hands and created The Nipple Innovation Project. 

About The Nipple Innovation Project 

The Nipple Innovation Project became the first charity to collaborate with the NHS by partnering with Bradford Teaching Hospitals to offer nipple tattoo services post-surgery. This groundbreaking initiative caught the attention of TEDx, leading them to invite Lucy to speak about her work and her direct involvement with the NHS.

Lucy founded The Nipple Innovation Project in 2018 to provide education, funding, and access to skilled tattoo artists for breast cancer survivors seeking specialised nipple tattoos. After founding the project after years of doing private work, Lucy’s story went viral through a BBC article. She was soon overwhelmed with requests from women across the country seeking her help with their faded hospital tattoos.

Currently, survivors undergoing mastectomies are offered free semi-permanent tattoos through the NHS, but they often fade and can lead to physical and emotional challenges. Repeat treatments are rarely available due to funding limitations and the risk of further damaging delicate scar tissue. Determined to make a difference, Lucy launched her initiative to advocate for permanent 3D nipple tattoos.

Example of nipple tattoo provided by The Nipple Innovation Project

The project aims to raise awareness of this life-changing services, ensuring people know it exists and have access to information about all available choices, encouraging them to make informed and educated decisions.

Work was, and still is being done by practitioners who are given minimal training, and they are unintentionally causing further damage,” explains Lucy. “I wanted to make my service accessible to anyone affected by breast cancer without cost being a factor and I wanted to build a directory of artists throughout the UK to make it more accessible to more people, so the charity was born. This has been a huge labour of love, and so much harder than I anticipated, but we are making inroads to this becoming more mainstream, and it is all worth it.”

Lucy Thompson at TEDxNHS

Centered on the belief that ’ideas change everything’, TEDx fosters impactful conversations and the exchange of big ideas worldwide. Having a woman in the tattooing industry take the stage to use this platform for destigmatising a taboo topic is truly incredible.

The work we do is still so unknown, but it can be life -changing,” says Lucy. “When people come out the other side of cancer, there’s still so much trauma to overcome and after a mastectomy, theres not just physical healing, but emotional, too.” 

Nipple tattoos are offered on the NHS for people who want them, but they are basic, semi permanent and they quickly fade away, negatively impacting a person’s self esteem. Our solution is here to stay and the result is much more realistic looking, as we are using our specific skills as tattoo artists.

We also offer our services in a beautiful private studio in a rural setting, out in the countryside, so there are no hospitals and the experience is one that encourages reflection, escapism and serenity, helping survivors to find their confidence again, and to help them love their bodies again after they have been through something so life changing.”

Watch Lucy Thompson’s full TEDxNHS talk, here

Follow The Nipple Innovation Project

Stay connected with The Nipple Innovation project by following them on Instagram, Facebook, TikTok, and YouTube, where you can witness their stunning creations come to life.