Apprentice love: Jade

As we scrolled through Instagram looking for new artists, budding tattoo apprentice Jade’s four-eyed women drew us in. We were captivated by bedroom scenes, bright pops of colour and striking murals – we had to find out more about this tattoo apprentice, who works at the all-female Heartless Tattoo in Los Angeles…

How long have you been a tattoo apprentice, and how did you get your apprenticeship? I started my journey back in November. I was apprenticing at a shop in Beverly Hills that was black owned, which was really dope. I was there for a few months but unfortunately that opportunity was cut short.  Even though I wasn’t  there long, I was able to absorb a lot of important information about what it is like to tattoo darker skin, which is very important for me as an artist.

Honestly,  I got my first apprenticeship just being at the right place and right time.  After leaving my first apprenticeship, I was offered another opportunity to continue my journey at an all Woman of Color shop located in Los Angeles, Heartless Tattoo. The owner of Heartless, Yher, has been a long time inspiration of mine and friend and she told me when I was ready, she had a home for me. I couldn’t be more grateful for my Heartless family!

What advice would you give to anyone wanting to get started in the tattoo industry? I would tell them to put themselves out there as an artist, make connections, continue to practice your craft. Nothing is just handed to you. Living out your dream consists of hard work, dedication, and practice. Also, I would tell them to make sure that this industry is something that you’re genuinely passionate about and that you’re ready to sacrifice for it. Pay respect to those who did it before you and the history behind it as well. 

Can you share with us your experience as a woman in the tattoo world, and your experience as a black woman in this industry? So far so good. The shop that I’m at is an all female shop so it’s really nice to be around feminine energy, especially in such a male-dominated industry. As I get further into the industry, I know that there will of course be some hardships for not only being a woman but also a black woman, but I am here for the fight and representation.

What’s the tattoo scene like in LA? LA has so much history and has played a HUGE part in the tattoo culture and history. From Ed Hardy to GoodTime Charlie, to Freddy Negrete and Mister Cartoon, they paved the way for us artists and put LA/SoCal tattooing on the map. It’s crazy I can call this place my home and just be surrounded by so much history. It’s very normal to see people blasted in tattoos in LA, it’s very accessible to get tattooed out here. It’s very normal. You will drive down Melrose Ave, and pass like 10 shops within a two mile radius. It’s quite interesting!

We love your double-eyed girls, what inspires your illustrations? I’ve always been inspired by black women and women of color. The four-eyed girl is how I add a little me into every painting. I’ve been wearing glasses since third grade and being called four-eyes has always been a thing, so I just re-channelled it into my world. When I got serious about my art, I wanted to create something that looked like me and the people who also look like me. I realized that a lot of the artists I looked up to weren’t depicting black women (up until recently honestly). And I wanted to create something that I would’ve loved to see when I was a kid. 

Are there any artists or tattooers you look up to or influence your work? There is a list of people who I look up to and influence my work. I can talk about them all day honestly. Tattoo wise, my Heartless family inspires me every single day, I can’t believe I’m surrounded by such talented, cool ass people. I’m also inspired by Doreen Garner (@flesh_and_fluid), Brittany Randell (@humblebeetattoo), K. Wong (@kwongtattoo), and Lydia Madrid (@lydiamadriid). My art influences are Christina Martinez (@sew_trill), @reesabobeesa, Natasha Lillipore (@lillipore), Hailey Losselyongs (@hai_ey), and Tamia Blue (@tamiablue). 

What do you like to draw/tattoo and what do you want to do more of? I love drawing my girls and I want to be able to tattoo them as well as my original art.

How would you describe your style? Where do you want to take your tattoos in the future? I would describe my art style as illustrative for sure. But as far as my tattoo style I want to push my work as neo-traditional and show black art in the neo world. 

Can you tell us about your own tattoo collection, what was your first, which is your favourite? I’ve been collecting tattoos since my eighteenth birthday. Both my mom and step dad are heavily tattooed so my mom literally dropped me off at the tattoo shop on my birthday. My first tattoo is a hamsa with a Ganesha inside on my rib. That’ll forever hold a special place in my heart since it was my first, however I don’t have any favorites. I think for the most part my tattoos are badass! There’s a couple that I definitely wish were different but I still love them and it’s funny to look back at.

Have your tattoos changed how you feel about yourself and your body? DEFINITELY! I couldn’t imagine myself without my tattoos and I am planning on covering the majority of my body. It’s so fun to look at the pieces and be like holy shit that’s my arm. 

I feel like they make me, me. It sets me apart from the rest and at the same time I’m a part of a sick ass community. 

We love how open and honest you are about your mental health on Instagram, can you say a bit more about why this is so important to share. I felt like at this time, It was time to share where I am and how I feel. I never liked talking about my mental health because it made me feel like a burden to others, but this time I knew that I wasn’t being open for me but for those who feel the same way and feel alone. I felt like it was important to let people to know that it is okay to be not okay.

Self Love Club member Sare Goldman

We chat to Manchester-based business owner Sare Goldman, a fat positive self lover who loves tattoos, empowering others and sharing her creativity.

Being a self lover is a journey that never ends, it’s about breaking the rules that society has set and embracing everything about yourself – good and bad.

I have dabbled in self love for around two years, I followed plus size girls on Instagram and started to follow their journeys, but it really came to life in June 2019. My parents were going through a divorce which hit me hard and I wanted something else to focus on. I had always struggled with my weight, I yo-yo dieted and I was never happy with my body. In June 2019, I decided to ditch the diet and just start to love and embrace myself instead. I started to take pictures of my body, clothed and unclothed (in underwear), and started to post them on Instagram. I was never prepared for the amount of support I got from other like minded people who were on their self love journeys just like me! Since then I have never looked back!

I’m very much an activist at heart and I strive to be the voice for people who feel that they don’t have a voice. So self love is present in my life every day. Whether that’s practicing it myself or by trying to empower others to see that they’re amazing!

Self love is about trying to train your brain to rethink the rules around your body and the clothes your wear. Of course I still get body conscious from time to time but it’s about always speaking to yourself in a kind way. No matter who you are, I can guarantee that you have something that you’re hung-up about when it comes to your body; whether that be fat rolls, cellulite, stretch marks or your teeth. Life is far too short to be worrying about what you look like. No matter what you look like, you are allowed to exist freely, you are allowed to wear what you want, when you want and live free from judgement. Self love isn’t selfish and you deserve to love your body.

Being a fat positive self lover can be hard at times as it’s about changing people’s mindsets, which can take a long time! I find that the best thing to keep me going in the right direction is to simply get dressed up and take selfies. It’s so empowering to look back on the pictures and think “OMG, I’m so gorgeous”, and there is absolutely nothing wrong with thinking so highly of yourself! If I ever get disheartened or body conscious, I just talk to one of the many friends that I’ve made in the self love community and they put me on the right track again! They are so supportive and it’s great to know people who are exactly like you.

Fat positivity is about accepting fat bodies and not wanting to change them. It’s about normalising the fat body and teaching people to not see fat bodies as “disgusting” and “unhealthy”. Being fat positive isn’t “promoting ob*sity”, it’s simply just trying to show society that fat people shouldn’t be shamed for just existing. I love empowering other people, I love encouraging them to see how gorgeous and amazing they are and yes, sometimes, people can be quite rude and ignorant but when you know you’ve empowered another girl to wear a crop top then it’s so worth it!

Tattoos have helped my self love journey so much! My body is a piece of art already so the tattoos just add to it. I’m not using tattoos to cover my body, I’m using my body to showcase some amazing work that makes my body look even more beautiful! I have around 20 tattoos and my first tattoo was when I was around 14. My ex was getting a tattoo and I was intrigued, so I bit the bullet and got a small star near my bikini line so my mum wouldn’t see it. It’s safe to say that I’ve had it covered up now! From the age of 16-18 I used to be obsessed with stars to a point where I have about five different sets on my body, all of which I’m planning to get covered up with some other amazing work!

My choice of tattoos have definitely changed since I’ve started my self love journey. I have a few women/feminist related tattoos and a few with empowering words on them such as “Stay True”, “Empower Women” and “Tough Girl”. My favourite type of tattoo style is neo traditional. I absolutely love the style and can’t wait to get more once lockdown is over!

Tattoos definitely inspire the pieces I create ! I can’t draw so the pieces I create are the next best thing. I started my business, Creative House UK, in July 2019, I had spent years trying to think of different business ideas because I’d always wanted to be my own boss.

Since a young age, I’d always wanted to be a hairdresser so took a fast track course to qualify. Once I qualified, I soon lost my passion for it. I then dabbled in photography and started to do model and family photoshoots, but then I found it too stressful to try and get that perfect shot. Then I had a lightbulb moment – “OMG, I can make prints!” I had made all of my own wedding stationery and it just seemed like the perfect idea.

I uploaded my first print on Etsy and when I got my first sale, I was just ecstatic! Fast forward to now and I have my own website and I’m now selling prints, phone cases, t-shirts, tote bags and other bits and bobs and I love every second. I’d always wanted a creative job but could never find anything that suited me until this.

I love to create empowering pieces that inspire people to love themselves. I want to create pieces that when people look at them or wear them, they feel so good about themselves. My t-shirts have been a massive hit and so many of my self love babes are wearing them. It makes me so proud to see them wearing something I’ve created, knowing that they feel empowered and that they are loving themselves wearing it.

That’s how magic happens: The tattoos of Blvck Mamba

Liam Blvck (@theblvckmambatattoo) crafts contemporary blackwork tattoos at Bebop Ink in Vancouver, Canada. Liam combines their heritage of Chinese and European culture into dark, fantastical artworks which straddle the line between the above and the below, much like the lines Liam tells us they have existed between throughout their career and life…

What inspired you to become a tattoo artist? Did you complete an apprenticeship, if so what was this like? I’ve been fascinated by tattoos since I was young when I saw all of my favourite band members covered in tattoos, it really intrigued me. I remember thinking “can I just wear my favourite art on my skin forever?”

I was the only arty child in my family, and my family thought I would pass that phase as I got older, but I didn’t. I didn’t really think about being a tattooer until I was 16. When it really struck me how I was extremely into body modification and that I would love to do anything related to art, but at the same time I’m wasn’t interested in just painting on a canvas and selling my art in a gallery. After high school, I ended up going to art school which really reinforced the idea of becoming a tattooer. It took me years to find a proper apprenticeship, but I managed to find one at a street shop.

Luckily my mentor was willing to guide me through the process, even though it was a learning curve for both of us. I was his first apprentice ever. Most of the people who worked there were apprenticed under another boss, and I was the exception which kind of made me the black sheep. I was taken through extreme ups and downs when it came to my learning, because I wasn’t taught the way my boss was as an apprentice. I felt like I needed to learn faster and work harder to prove myself.

Can you tell us about your own tattoos, and the process behind these – how do you settle on a design or choose an artist? I’ve collected a handful of tattoos from different artists around the world; each of the pieces represent my growth as a person, and what I was going through at that time. Most of the tattooers I find are from tattoo magazines I’ve purchase, word of mouth, tattoo conventions and artists of the late 90s/early 2000-esque from a website hosted on Angelfire. I was on more of a scavenger hunt for tattoos back then, instead of just going on Instagram like you do now.

I used to believe every tattoo had to have a meaning in order to get it permanently on my body, and I was told if they didn’t I’d regret it for the rest of my life. Surprisingly, some of my most meaningful tattoos have now been covered. The older we are, it seems that we look back on things and the feelings we had have changed. Nothing stays the same forever, every day we grow as a person. I came to the realisation that it’s okay to just simply appreciate something in the moment, overthinking it would make things complicated.

Most of my tattoos at this point don’t have any meaning, rather I loved the work the tattooer had put out. I simply want what they’re good at, not just the styles, but the subject matters they’re interested in too.

Do you have a favourite tattoo either on your own body or one you have created? Every tattoo I’ve created I’ve loved in different ways, that’s pretty much asking someone to pick their favourite children!

But I would say my favourite tattoo on my own body would be my black-out arm. It was a cover up of a sleeve I’ve got when I was between 18 and 20. It showed how much I had changed as a person, and I realise back then I was still exploring my self identity, as a woman at that time, and as a non-white. Underneath layers and layers of black is a super colourful sleeve that even had an owl with neon pink wings! The black-out took me two to two and a half years to finish, each layer was done by a different coworker that I trusted. The experience of a black-out arm is so different than that of getting a design, it’s a different level of commitment, and it’s something that’s hard to describe until you’ve experienced it on your own.

How would you describe your work? Do you think your experiences have shaped the tattoos you create? Although I was born in Canada, the majority of my childhood was spent in Hong Kong. Hong Kong was colonised by the UK at that time and so I was exposed to European culture along with my own people’s culture. European art was always my favourite because I’m obsessed with how humans can achieve such levels of details in their craft or artwork. Also I was into heavier music and often old European art would be featured on album art and merch.

My work is a fine line between European-esque art, and my life experiences of living on the line between Western and Chinese culture – my identity, my skin, gender, mental health collides with European occult imagery. It’s abstract and complicated.

What kinds of tattoos do you love to do, what designs get you excited? Is there anything you’d like to create or a particular concept you’d like to explore? I would like to continue with the occult aesthetic in my work, but take it more into a surrealism direction. Loving what you do and taking it to another level is the truest growth of oneself.

How would you describe your experience as a queer tattooer in the tattoo industry? Does this influence the spaces you tattoo in? I started out as a cis woman in the industry and I experienced the struggle of being part of the boy’s club. I still notice how I get treated differently compared to white colleagues, and often I get the harsh end of it all. Even the clientele at the beginning of my career treated me poorly because most of the folks that came to me did so because I’m not white, they assumed that they could get a deal on the tattoo they wanted.

I also have experienced male tattooers putting me into uncomfortable situations, such as commenting on women’s appearances, wanting to meet me outside of the workspace for a “consultation” and when I’ve gotten a tattoo from them their arm is positioned in a questionable area.

When I realised that I’m non-binary, and started to dress more queer it was another segregation on top of what I had already experienced. I feel sometimes that the community itself questions my queerness and my right to the space because I’m married to a cis man and therefore I’m not queer and non-binary enough. I was still treated as a cis woman, and my chosen name threw people off and some of them got a bit uncomfortable when they had shown up to their consultation and were expecting to get tattooed by a male tattooer.

All of these experiences, have shaped me. I want to tattoo in a queer friendly safe space where all bodies, race, genders are welcome. Both tattooers and clients give so much trust to each other and vulnerability, in this space judgement and hate is not tolerated. Getting a tattoo shouldn’t be scary and you shouldn’t leave with a traumatic experience.

I’ve read that you’ve explored your craft in a lot of different countries is there a place or moment that stood out for you? I’ve travelled to a few places throughout my tattoo career, I always get inspired by my experiences. Also seeing how other tattooers that I admire love and perfect their craft, gives me the motivation and validation to know that you create your own journey within this craft. There’s no such thing as one art being superior to others, your craft is created by a collection of experiences. The people who come to you do so because they connect with your creation, and that’s how magic happens.

Tattoo collector in lockdown

It’s been three months and seven days (who’s counting?) Since my last tattoo, and I know one of the first things I’m going to do, when it’s safe to do so, is get a new one. I think I may even be longing for that new tattoo itch. That may be pushing it a bit too far, but I definitely miss getting tattooed.

For me a new tattoo is usually an excuse to see a new part of the UK, a day trip by myself or with a friend – an adventure. Where I can get tattooed, meet a new artist, discover some good food and a new place in the process. Last year I even stayed away for a night, on my own in a hotel, which may not be much for some people, but for someone with anxiety this was worth celebrating. I travel miles and hours to get tattooed, sometimes booking months in advance to allow me to save and plan out my day. Aside from checking train travel and Google Maps, I’m scouring Instagram for restaurants, shops and things to do after I’ve been tattoo.

It’s not just the excitement a new tattoo brings that keeps me adding to my collection. The freedom to add something new to my body, taking ownership and decorating this home I live in with something I’ve chosen or dreamt up. A little collaboration between myself and an artist, it’s pretty special. This time has been tumultuous, unsettling and disruptive for many, but I’m grateful that it’s allowed me to slow down. I was chatting to a friend (on the phone) about how we’ve found ourselves with even more time to think of new tattoos ideas and to discover new tattooers. My screen time and my tattoo wish list have definitely increased, but I’m ok with that. With lives on pause there is space to admire and look at our bodies, at all the gaps we can fill and that perfect placements for that new design not yet created.

Unfortunately tattoo artists now find themselves temporarily out of work, however many are drawing, posting new commissions and artwork almost everyday. The flurry of creativity has me lusting after every post, every possible sketch could be my next tattoo. My tattooers-to-get-tattooed by list is growing by the minute! In this new expanse we find ourselves in with free weekends and an empty calendar, it seems only natural to start booking in, buying gift vouchers or leaving deposits for what feel like almost imaginary tattoo appointments. Claiming those designs before anyone else does, filling our walls with tattoo prints and art are ways we can offer support to an industry on pause.

If anything this time has helped me to reaffirm just important tattooing is, how much of my life I dedicate to this art. As well as cementing how tattoos allow me to be my authentic self, that they’re an even bigger part of my identity that I first thought. Lockdown has also shown all of us just how fleeting and precarious everything is, showing us what matters and what doesn’t. Before this time I worried whether people (strangers) liked my tattoos or if they thought differently of me because I have them. Of course this doesn’t matter, and I’m not going to let these hang-ups stop me from getting more prominent tattoos. The first new tattoos I’ll get will be on my fingers, and they will be glorious.

Words: Rosalie Hurr

Sewing tattoos into skin: Laura Taylor

Laura ‘LAET’ Taylor creates sensationally beautiful tattoos at Sri Yantra Tattoo, Oakland California. We chat to the artist about her craft and inclusivity within the tattoo world

You describe yourself as a skin seamstress, can you tell us a more about this? I started using my mother’s sewing machine at around five years old. One day, she sat me down in front of her sewing machine, and as I picked up the machine technique, I discovered that I found machine sewing enjoyable. I would make quilts and clothes, little projects that grew into big projects, experimenting with a variety of fabrics and bold colours as I went along.

Fast forward 15 years, I went to Central Saint Martins school of Art and Design in London, a place that celebrates courageous free-thinkers and creative innovators. Going to that art school was a game changer for me. I felt seen by the staff and inspired. Being at CSM made me realise my passion for textiles was a legitimate endeavour, as I saw the same spark amongst the textiles students. I studied illustration there, and was able to work on my draftsmanship. I’ve always been looking for a creative space that combines my love of drawing and technical sewing with textiles. Tattooing has become that space for me. The intricacies of my tattoo designs often feel like embroidery as I am constructing them, and so the term ‘Skin Seamstress’ came to mind and has stuck with me.

How long have you been tattooing and what drew you to the industry? This year (2020) will be my 18th year in tattooing. It’s a pretty surreal feeling. I’m in my 30s and I’ve already been tattooing for over half of my life. It’s weird. I’ve been tattooing for far less time than a lot of folks, but a lot longer than others. Enough time to see enormous shifts and passing trends.

I’d say I prefer the way things are headed. A little more conscious, a bit more inclusive. It keeps the bar high, with artists producing higher quality work along with happier clientele.

The experience that drew me to tattooing was the first time I saw a tattoo on a person. It was the ’90s era of London, England, outside the Commonwealth Institute on Kensington High Street. I saw a woman walking towards me on the street. She had a huge red mohawk, fully sleeved up, and Doc Martens. She owned that road with her presence, and her confidence shone. I was four years old. I decided right there and then that I would tattoo.

How would you describe your experiences as woman tattooer, especially in the light of recent events within the industry? I would say that things have improved, slowly but surely. The industry is witnessing shifts as the cultural conversation progresses and society moves forward. Being a woman in this industry used to put you in a minority group, but equally that gives you more chance to make a difference and lead for the change you’d like to see. I believe in equality, I believe we are getting there one conversation at a time. I see changes and I remain hopeful, and as always, empowered.

What does tattooing mean to you? Both the work you create and the tattoos on your own body. Freedom. Tattooing is freedom to me. Artistic expression and freedom. Something worth striving for. A great aspect of tattooing is the ability to travel with your job. Tattooing opened up opportunities for me to move to the United States, and develop my skills in more depth. The work I create is heavily influenced by my love of textiles and nature. People will ask me for my flowers, which I will never tire of! Nature is a brilliant resource and teaches us so much.

I personally have a collection of blackwork from about 15 different artists from the UK and the states. Some is ornamental blackwork, some is very gothic blackwork, some is dotwork, and some is punk style/prison style blackwork.

How would you describe your style? What inspires your creations? My style is intricate and detailed for sure. Clients will approach me asking for large-scale pieces, and to keep things intricate. I’d say this is where my seamstress tendencies come into action; often my tattoos look like textiles on skin. I am inspired by my biracial heritage too. I grew up in a British multi-racial household with a variety of vibrant cultures surrounding me. I try to allow this to flow through me into my work.

What do you love to tattoo and what would you like to do more of? Nature is always going to be a favourite theme for me. It offers up endless possibilities. I’m always down to tattoo floral tattoos.

Growing up in London, I felt the medieval and gothic architecture of the city calling me. I’m a Camden Town goth chick for sure, and spent a lot of time in the London goth scene as a teenager. Over the years I can see those style tendencies come through in my work. So anything gothic will always speak to me personally.

We love your rich, opulent colour palette, do you prefer to work in colour or black and grey, or is this like choosing a favourite tattoo – impossible? Tough question! When I tattooed in London, I was known for gothic ornate blackwork. Clients would mainly ask me for black and grey. I was expanding on the celestial style sun and moon pieces I like to do, and I’d tattoo a lot of depictions of tarot cards. Once I started travelling to the states, I’d already done some vibrant pieces. Mainly tattoos of brightly coloured peonies or chrysanthemums. I started receiving a lot more interest in my colour work, once I came to the States. I guess the colour thing really took off. It’s pretty cool, looking back on that, to think about how much my colour style blew up, even after I was known for a completely different style.

We’ve heard than many tattooers may often refuse to tattoo dark skin, is this something you have experienced? If you do not know how to tattoo all skin tones within society, you do not know how to tattoo. So you’d better learn. Tattoos look brilliant on black and brown skin tones. If you don’t know how to display your work on these tones, you are missing out. 

How can we make the tattoo scene more inclusive? What changes would you like to see, do you have any advice for black artists? I think that some important steps forward are being made. I don’t believe overall that tattooing is the racist place it used to be. Tattooing reflects society, and as society continues to be diverse, so should tattooing. Accepting this, is a simple but huge step forward. I would encourage any black artist with a passion for the craft to get involved. It is hard work, you must be committed, but it is also a birthright and something to be very proud of. 

Is it important that we call out cultural appropriation when we see it? How can people who profit from this turn things around? I’ve been watching cultural appropriation get worse (especially in England, as we are not taught about our colonial empire building heritage) I used to think it was not important, but now I’ve seen where it has lead us, and as the cultural conversation progresses I’d like it to be more considered. Just think about the marginalised cultures that do not benefit. Tattooing is alive within society, we exist because of our diverse clientele, and I would like to see tattooing reflect and be respectful to that.