Moko Kauae: the chin tattoo

Te Hāro o te Kāhu ki Tuawhakarere
See beyond the horizon

Piiata Lauren Turi-Heenan, 45, from Haumoana, New Zealand, tells the story of her chin tattoo, which was first published Things&Ink The Face Issue.

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Photo: Bashan Te Rau Oriwa Heenan

Moko Kauae, the chin tattoo, is a rite of passage, a symbolic expression and manifestation of a dynamic upward movement of time and space within sacred feminine energies. It is a time of collaborating SELF-identity and collective identity within the Iwi, the community/clan. 

‘Rites and rituals were performed over the wearer of Moko Kauae by Tohunga, specialists in their chosen area (birthing, tattooing, ritual prayer etc.) in honour of their journey from female child to entering the realms of Te Whare Tangata – Womanhood: The House of Mankind.

Moko Kauae is the beginning of a higher consciousness of learning and upholding of sacred knowledge and understanding of cycles, biorhythms (moon/tide), rites of childbirth, rites of menopause, arts. Māori women were revered, honoured and seen as the embodiment of Papa-tū-ā-nuku, the earth mother/sister.

‘As contemporary Maori women we have sat in an oppressive colonised state of being for well over a century. Our rites and rituals obscured, even lost to us. But Māori women refused to be imprisoned by western constraints and fought multiple states of oppression to be free from racism, sexism, prejudice, and to reunite nation, community and SELF.

‘I am a descendant of this ancient race and Moko Kauae is my birthright as a Māori woman. It is one of many rites of passage on my amazing journey in the realm of Te Whare Tangata. I express and manifest each personal rite of passage through the art form of Moko.

‘At 27 years of age, I agreed to wear Moko Kauae. My grandfather (Rii Tiakitai-Turi, our tribe Ngati Kahungunu) had made the request, because he didn’t want to see the tradition lost.

‘Over the months that followed, I consulted with tribal elders on maternal and paternal sides, family and friends. There were a few negative comments, “You will ruin your face”, “It’s barbaric”, “It’s Tapu/Taboo – sacred/forbidden”, “Why would you do that?”.It did not deter me, I have never regretted my grandfather’s vision or my decision.

‘At 28, my Moko Kauae was tapped into my skin with tattooing chisels called Uhi. The Tohunga Ta Moko (tattoo artist) was Te Rangi Takuku Kaihoro Laurie Nicholas. Since I was already a mother to five of my 13 children, I also received Moko Pū Whakairo, the lower abdomen tattoo for child bearers.

‘I am now 45, a grandmother of seven (five of whom I’ve delivered), and I will be receiving my Tātua, a mid section tattoo. This will be done the traditional way – with Uhi and pigment from aawheto (mummified caterpillars) by Henriata Nicholas, an incredible Tohunga in her own right.

‘Wearing Moko Kauae has enhanced my life in many ways, including my desire to become a traditional tattooist. I have never been afraid to be me, and my children (four through to 27) and grandchildren see me in the same light they always have –as Mummy and Nanna.

‘I enjoy children’s curiosity and questioning nature. I am not offended when they ask to touch my chin, as I believe this tactile approach helps them learn. I have even given class presentations to students of all ages about my Moko Kauae.

‘Each spiral and curve has a name and a story.  The Whakatakotoranga, the spiral under my chin, is the foundation that knowledge is built upon, the open koru (spiral) represent building blocks of life. The Pūhoro, the wave/tidal patterns, that draw downward from the corners of my lips represent our cycles, biorhythms and our natural affinity to the moon and the tides.  My bottom lip acknowledges earthly/human rites/rituals, and my top lip acknowledges esoteric rites/rituals.

‘I am grateful to all my ancestresses and ancestors who have fought to enable me to stand in my absolute truth beauty and light today as Whare Tangata…The House of Mankind.

‘He Tapu Te Wāhine na te mea he Whare Tangata. Women are sacred because they are The House of Mankind.’

A Darker Shade: Interview with Tattoo Artist Jenny MY Dubet

Tattooer, Jenny MY Dubet, who works at Gypsy Blood in London, may have have only just started working in the industry, but she’s already creating powerful work. Her illustrations are much like black lace: delicate but also dark. With a saturnine aura, Jenny takes classic iconography and makes it her own with a hint of ancient etching or esoteric engraving aesthetics. Like poetic tarot cards, or messages from the netherworld, Jenny’s tattoos have an exquisite evanescent quality that collectors clearly adore.

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Words: Justine Morrow for Tattoodo

When I stopped into Gyspy Blood to interview Jenny, I was also able to meet one of her clients, Elena from Los Angeles, who was only in London for a week. “I feel like her art is very dark but very feminine, and I love that. I’m so happy I found her.” Since this particular city is a hub for an immense amount of creative talent, it was no surprise to learn that Elena came to London specifically for her first tattoo. And although getting tattooed for the first time can be nerve-wracking, it was lovely to see Jenny show such care and kindness to someone who had travelled so far for such an intimate experience.

Before tattooing, however, Jenny was kind enough to sit down with me and share her story, her inspirations, and what it’s like being a tattoo artist in London.

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I’d love to know how you got into tattooing? It’s something I’ve always wanted to do. I worked in fashion for a long time and about a year ago I decided to do tattoos and follow my dreams. I worked in fashion for 15 years, and I was like, “This is not what I wanted to do.” I wanted to go back to my roots…to what I always wanted to do. I love it!

Interesting! So, why did you get into fashion at first? Well, my parents didn’t want me to get tattoos! It was like 20 years ago, so it was a very very different time for tattooing, and I’m from the south of France so they were even more behind there. So, I moved to London and did fashion.

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How did you finally make the transition from fashion to tattooing? Because that’s a big deal! I started drawing again about three years ago…and then I started tattooing my friends, my legs, and then I just decided to take the plunge: I found an apprenticeship.

What was the apprenticeship experience like for you? I learned a lot. But I felt a bit used. It’s basically like an internship, so that almost always happens. It wasn’t horrible. They didn’t treat my horribly, but there was a point where I felt like I could learn more than what I was getting.

Do you think you’ll ever teach someone to tattoo yourself? Yeah, I’d love to! Once I feel like I’m fully confident. I’ve only been tattooing for three years; I still have so much to learn.

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Do you have anything in mind that you’d change specifically about the way you would teach an apprentice, versus the way you were taught? I think I’d put more care into it because I’d really want them to get really good. Where I did mine, it was way too busy for them to look after me. It was too demanding. Like, we have an apprentice here and we’ve been teaching her to draw properly…that’s something that I wish I’d had.

I feel like sometimes part of why tattoo artists like tattooing is because there’s an education aspect, because you’re always trying to grow in your craft. Yeah, I’ve always been like that. I’ve always said my favourite job is being a student. I love learning so I did my Masters, all of that. It’s always moving forward. That was the thing with fashion, I felt…I’m not getting anything out of this anymore. I’m good at it, I’m doing well, but “eh.” In the end, it’s like…what’s the point?

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It’s interesting because France is so different when it comes to tattoos…the tattoo culture there is so different. Being heavily tattooed is like taboo. Yeah, they don’t like it. I’ve been tattooed for around ten years but I used to go back home and people would just stare so much! Especially when you’re a girl, for some reason. Maybe they think girls don’t get tattoos and then you show up and they’re like “Woah! Yes they do!” Even here, in London, it was like that for a time.

How did you deal with that? It’s my choice. I was fine. I accept that I want to be different. I used to dress really crazy too, so I’m used to it.

And your parents, have they come around? Yeah, they’re fine.

I’d love if you could talk about your style, actually…it’s a bit illustrative, but there’s still a traditional aspect to it. I think that’s the thing, I mean, I’ve always been influenced by tattooing to some level, but still had my style, which is more illustrative. But I’m very influenced by tattooing, and all those common themes like sacred hearts, skulls, burning stuff…you know! But I still developed my own style within it.

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Do you look at anything in particular? Any favourite artists or movies? I’m really drawn to directors. Like Jim Jarmusch and things like this. I really like trad tattoos, I used to be so into them. There’s so many different styles now though! Also, people who have specific different techniques like Kelly Violet…I like people who’ve done that thing where they’ve kept it traditional but put their own twist on it. Otherwise, I look at a lot of old postcards, vintage graphics, Christian iconography…I look into that quite a lot.

And what is your process like creating a piece for one of your clients? I mean, if they come up with something, I try to follow it as much as I can with my style, so I’ll do research, pop up some pictures, and draw from that. But I’ve been experimenting with different styles, so I’ll try to do more shading…I feel like tattooing has really pushed my drawing, because sometimes the things I draw I don’t tattoo, or the things I tattoo I don’t necessarily draw, but I try to do things that I like more. I’m trying to mix it all up.

What is it like for you being a female tattoo artist? So far so good. There’s quite a lot of us now!

And why do you work in this specific shop? Well, I’ve been here for about a month, the shop I worked at before was less of a traditional shop, like less traditional tattoo shop, but this one is a nice environment to be in. Everyone’s really nice here, and works really well together. And I’m still learning, and everyone’s really supportive.

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What do you do when you’re not tattooing? I still work in fashion a bit. I’m a pattern maker.

Do you have a specific philosophy behind your creative output? I think when I started it was very much an emotional outlet, now it’s become a creative language I can just use. So, it’s a bit less so emotional now, but I’m trying to find that again. I liked when it was like that. Now it’s more visual.

What is it about tattooing that attracted you? Was it just the visual? I think it was the whole culture. Like, I’ve always wanted tattoos…even when I was a teenager. I think I tattooed myself when I was like 13 with a sewing needle, but it was just this idea of ritual that I find quite interesting.

But I like the culture, the drawing, it’s really forever for the people you tattoo, but really ephemeral for the tattoo artist, so it’s this interesting relationship to the artwork that I quite like. I like creating for people too, and it’s really nice to make people happy.

Why did you come to London to do your work? I think when I was 18 it was just really cool to go to London! It was a big city, and I’m from the countryside…so I was like, this is really cool! I’ve always been eccentric, here nobody cares. It’s the complete opposite in France. It’s nice to be somewhere where I can be myself, and not get stared at!

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Why do you think London has such a huge tattoo community? It’s always had a history of the punks…it’s a pride here to be a different person, or super avant-garde. Also now, tattooing is so much more mainstream. There’s a culture of like tattoos for people who don’t like tattoos, you know what I mean? Small things, cute things. Which makes it accessible for more people, and even two years ago it wasn’t exactly like that. It’s good for artists, for business. But it’s changed a lot. Plus, you have Instagram. I remember when I started getting tattoos, you just had to go to a tattoo shop and get a tattoo by whoever. I feel sometimes the tattoo industry is a bit behind when it comes to all the things that are actually happening to it. I’m sometimes conflicted about it…but at the same time, it’s good. I’m wondering how long it’s going to be like that. I feel like it could be a fashion, but I guess we’ll just see how it plays out!

 

Inked Girls: The sexualisation of women with tattoos

The female body is sexually penetrative in its very nature. The skin forms a protective layer, but this can only protect so much. The argument that our skin should not be blemished is a prominent one. Tattooing a woman’s skin is a way of reclaiming it, in its purest form it is naked and sexually accessible, and tattooing is a way of gaining control. It is power. However, some might suggest that the act of tattooing is, in fact, tarnishing it.

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Perceptions of tattooed women have always suggested sexual promiscuity and over-confidence, and over time this has become a negative way of viewing these traits. We still view female confidence with an irrational disdain. By those who aren’t within the tattoo community, tattoos are often associated with masculine men, sailors and bikers. It’s certainly how my parents view them. They’re for tough guys. Feminine tattooing breaks these boundaries and The Tattooed Lady performing in freak shows personifies the shock, or horror, of tattooed women in society.

Albert Parry, author of the 1933 book Tattoos; Secrets of a Strange Art, describes a rape case in late-1920s Boston in which the prosecutor, on realising that the woman he was defending had a tattoo, dropped the case. The judge and jury released the two men who raped her on the grounds that they had been misled by the butterfly on her leg. The defendant herself was put on trial, and her tattoo was seen as evidence of her guilt.

This seems to be a theme throughout the history of tattoos on women. Judgement and sexualisation are part of the process. Whether this is due to society’s ideological restraints on women, or whether the act of getting tattooed is depicted as a practice meant for “those at sea and criminals” alone, is uncertain. What is clear, however, is that in the world of two minorities – those with tattoos and women – face criticism at the hand of others.

It is rarely considered that women don’t get tattooed in order to challenge traditional feminism, but instead to enforce it. Common themes in female based tattoo art are butterflies, flowers and gentle animals; symbols of rebirth, and fertility. Instead of defying their sexuality, women can enforce it.

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Tattooing is a fantastic way for women to reclaim control over their bodies, but even the freedom they gain from their tattoos can be culturally written over. For instance, who hasn’t been told that they were, “such a beautiful girl” prior to having their tattoos and who hasn’t faced the implication they are ruining their body? These comments, although sometimes well-meant, once again take away the attempt at personal freedom and expression by the female involved. According to the Sociology MA thesis of A. Ellerbrok, “While 65% of the male tattooees indicated that their family members have reacted positively to their tattoo(s), only 36% of female tattooees indicated the same.”

Women have pioneered the use of tattoos to reclaim their bodies from traumatic experiences, including disease and abuse. Recently, women recovering from breast cancer have sought tattoos, both to create a new aesthetic for mastectomy scars and to express the devastating effects of the disease. Tattoo artist Sasha Merritt, based at Dragonfly Custom Ink in San Francisco, recognises the importance of tattooing in the healing process for women who have mastectomy scars and advertises a special rate for survivors.

The concept of the wild female is underpinned by the implicit understanding that to tattoo one’s female body with apparent ‘male’ body art, in regards to imagery, size, or location, is to take part in an irreversible act of destruction in relation to femininity. The attitude that a woman is “desecrating her beautiful body by marking it with something that’s not feminine” is stated by a participant in an interview conducted with A. Ellerbrok for her thesis. Another said, “Honestly, if I see a woman with a lot of tattoos I think oh my god what was she thinking, she barely looks like a girl anymore”. The latter participant was a woman.

The sexualisation of female tattoos has always been embedded in these stereotypical concepts, and has once again become a hotbed for debate. With the rise of Suicide Girls, and the origin of feminine tattoos being with circus performers, it’s clear that tattoos on women are heavily sexualised: the small costumes and flaunting of their bodies has secured this. After all, the tattooed lady wouldn’t be so shocking if you couldn’t see her tattoos.

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It’s interesting to note, however, that not all women baring tattoos are flaunting them intentionally. For instance, within the fetish community women with tattoos are common, but that is a separate part of their personality not a requirement of their job, perhaps just a reflection on the subculture itself.

An overview of the literature on female tattooing and sexuality suggests that the tattooed female is both interpreted and performed in the context of a highly sexualised media and advertisement-saturated society. According to radical feminist Joan Jacobs Brumberg in An Intimate History of American Girls (1997) we live in “a culture of unrelenting objectification where women’s bodies are used to sell everything” – even children’s toys such as the tattooed Barbie doll. This reflects the extent to which the sexualised female tattoo has become a normalised consumer image within mainstream society. Despite this image, tattoos are still associated with negative sexualisation, for example, the slang term for a lower back tattoo is the Tramp Stamp.

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The clearest example of the sexualisation of women bearing tattoos is the popularity of Suicide Girls, the online forum dedicated to those who live an alternative lifestyle. The website is now a worldwide phenomena; there are a huge number of paid models and an even larger number of paying subscribers, they sell merchandise and are a massive, successful company in their own right. What started off as a way of connecting is now a business, and they have grown from 200 models in 2004 to a huge 2,000 models in 2012 [update: there are now more than 3,000]. Everyone wants to be a Suicide Girl. They highlight the alternative lifestyle, and the beauty of a feminine and often tattooed scene. Sadly, the site chooses to highlight their differences with erotic photo sets, perpetuating the image of the tattooed lady being the easy-to-screw lady. What began with the intention of celebrating the uniquely beautiful has turned into a standardised erotic website with pictures of tattooed women. They tried so hard to be different that they set a new bar for conformity.

Words by Kelli Savill, first published in The Face Issue of Things & Ink which was published in 2013. Mannequin tattooed by El Bernardes, Dominique Holmes and Inma. Photos by Kristy Noble.

An ode to Carbs

We adore carbs in all their various forms: crisps, chips, pasta, noodles, pastry. We think about them all the time. And we’re pleased to see that there are a lot of people who love them as much as we do, so much so that they have chosen to immortalise their carby passion in ink. Here’s a round-up of our fave carb tattoos… 

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@hayleyblackwoodtattoo

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@fakeskintattoo

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@slonenkotattoo

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@melgracietattoo

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@lucybluetattoo

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@jillhollingsworthtattoo

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@keelyglitters

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@j00lie

Hmm, now we’re hungry. Share your carb – or any food really – tattoos with us on Instagram #thingsandink 

Interview with Tattoo Artist: Amanda Rodriguez

Originally from New York, tattoo artist Amanda Rodriguez creates stunningly beautiful nature-inspired floral tattoos. Now based in Brixton, London, we welcomed Amanda to the city by catching up with her to chat all things tattooing…

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You mentioned that you were living in New York, what drew you to London? I grew up in NYC and lived there most of my life. It’s changed quite a bit and the hustle of it grew old for me. I’ve been in love with English culture since I was young. As a teenager I fell in love with Brit-pop. I identify better with English culture, with my sense of humour and interests. I’m also a huge football fan. I’ve visited many times and always wanted to live here but the timing was never right. Over the last year, it became something that had to happen and now I’m here and very happy to be here.

Where can people find you? I’m currently in Brixton but the best way to get tattooed by me is to email me via my website. I generally do all my consultations via email.

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How would you describe your style? I’m terrible with genres but I would say my style is illustrative. I am heavily influenced by both nature and traditional tattooing technique. I love bold linework and muted colours.

What do you love to tattoo and what would you like to do more of? I love tattooing roses and peonies because I’m a total flower nerd but I love anything in nature. I love bugs, especially moths. I’m actually terrified of bugs but I love to tattoo them. So I’d love to do more of that. I would also like to do more lady faces, I grew up drawing portraits and I think they make really lovely tattoos.

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What inspires you? Nature inspires me, which is kind of funny if you know me because I’m not too keen on being outdoors. I just love seeing all the amazing beautiful things that exist in the world. Like a completely black moth that is the size of your head but dies within a week because it has no mouth, and orchids that look like monkey’s faces. I’ve also always been interested in animal bones. I find them to be incredibly beautiful and fascinating objects and it’s amazing to think you only see them after death and decomposition. That’s the kind of stuff that interests me.

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Are there any artists that you admire? There are a ton of artists I admire, too many to really list in full, but in particular I love Tiny Miss Becca (@s6girl). I had the honour of having her tattoo my entire back and I love it immensely. She is so incredibly talented but on top of that she is really lovely and generous.

Have you noticed any differences between the tattoo scene in the UK and the US? Yes, and these are some of the things that made me want to move. For one, tattoo collectors here seem to understand that a tattoo is a luxury and if they want a big one they will take the day off work. Tattoo parlours here tend to have more normal working hours, and the tattoo artists themselves are very down to earth. In the US, I never felt like I fit in with the ‘scene’ as I don’t listen to metal and own a motorcycle or leather jacket. Also, and this may just be NYC culture, but everyone wants to be tattooed on nights and weekends. It got to the point where it completely drained me and I had to turn people down. Overall it’s more laid back here.

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Give Amanda a follow on Insta @amandatattoos and welcome her to London.