“This is the story of teaching myself to tattoo in the male-dominated environment of the 1980s – when women were not welcome in tattoo shops,” tattoo artist Pym Avery

Pym Avery started tattooing back in the ’80s. She wasn’t welcome. It didn’t stop her. She’s still tattooing now, although not fulltime. She’s just written a book, Show Time, documenting the decades of her life that she dedicated to teaching herself to tattoo. Breaking down barriers along the way. This is her story…

“I started tattooing on the road in Europe in 1987, when I was 19 years old. I’ve since travelled all over the world and worked in many places; it has been one long and amazing adventure. In that time, I watched the tattoo trade evolve from a shadowy ill-respected environment to a multi-billion-dollar industry.”

“There were only a few women tattooing during the ‘80s and ‘90s, mostly in North America. I met one of those pioneers, Madame Vyvyn Lazonga, in Seattle in the early 2000s and she suggested that I should write a book about my early days. At the time, I thought that no one would read such a story, but the seed stayed in my mind until 2024 when I decided to stop talking about writing a book and just do it.

First known photo of Pym tattooing. Festival de la Sainte Anne,France 1992.
Photo credit Rafael Helle

“It was hard to get away from my daily grind and all its distractions but I found an opportunity house-sitting for friends on a remote island in the Caribbean where I didn’t know anybody and spent three weeks immersing myself in the memories of the ‘80s and ‘90s – the ‘Golden Age’ of tattooing as some call it – and putting it all down in black and white.  

“Trying to find a title wasn’t easy, but I settled on Show Time because that was always what I called going to work; game face, even if you are not quite feeling it! It also fit well with the carnival and convention scenes that I worked in during that time. I then self-published the book using independent small businesses. 

Tattooing at a motorcycle rally in Northern Germany 1992

Show Time is the story of teaching myself to tattoo in the male-dominated environment of the 1980s in Europe – when women were not welcome in tattoo shops. I became interested in learning to tattoo in 1987 after I met a traveling tattoo artist in the South of Spain, who informed me that women do not do tattoos when I asked him to teach me. I was very curious about both the ability to earn money from art while travelling and why women would not be able to do it.  

German convention 1995

“At that time the tattoo scene, such as it was, was the domain of bikers and ‘manly men’ and there were indeed very few females practicing the art. It was almost impossible to learn any information about it without being connected, and very impossible to buy supplies as there were so few tattooers that everybody knew everybody else or at least knew of them. There was no internet or social media, and only a handful of suppliers worldwide. Orders were made by phone and arrived weeks later. Apprenticeships were almost impossible to find, the tattoo trade and its secrets were heavily protected against infiltration by rank outsiders; you had to know someone who knew someone.  

“It was a huge challenge, and I was determined to rise to it, but once I had acquired the necessary equipment to do the job, I would find out that the general public did not think that women could do tattoos either.  

Newspaper article from a Swiss convention 1995. ‘A man’s profession.’

“Traveling in Europe tattooing out of my small van, I finally managed to find a way to break the ice and was loosely adopted by the Feria or carnival which made the rounds of Southern Spain each year. After tattooing with the Feria for a while, I made my way into tattoo shops and access to the information I needed to round out my tattooing ability.

“As my career evolved, I became a part of the ‘90s international tattoo convention scene, which was a superhighway of information and learning, as well as the time at which tattooing began to break out of the Dark Ages and become a recognised art form worldwide. I opened my first tattoo shop in Germany in 1995. 

Pym and Titine Leu. Convention in Lausanne circa 1995

“The book itself, aside from being my personal story, is intended to be an inspiration for anybody wanting to become a tattoo artist despite all the pitfalls. The fact that the equipment and the necessary information for using it properly is now widely available does not bypass all the personal struggles, the challenges of dealing with the client’s expectations, or the self-employed aspects of the business. I wanted to give that perspective from my point of view, despite the fact that times have changed so radically. I think it is still valid. I also wanted to mention the women who had come before me, because I know that what they had to deal with was incrementally harder than what I faced, and I feel that we all owe them a lot of respect for that.  

“When tattoo conventions became popular in Europe in the 1990s, there were only a few female tattoo artists working at them, and we experienced a lot of disrespect from both sides of the booth. TV, radio, and newspaper interviews began to focus on the female tattooers and then we became published in magazines, and finally the disrespect began to melt away. It took a lot of determination and thick skin, but by the mid ‘90s, women had their own shops and were finally being recognised for their contribution to the trade.  

With Arno and Xed LeHead at Red Dragon Tattoo, Neustadt, Germany 1998

“As the internet began to become accessible to all, bridges could be built more easily across the world, and the barriers to women in the tattoo business as well as its overall male stranglehold began to come down quickly. The advent of TV shows about tattooing and the popularity of Kat Von D saw a dramatic increase in the numbers of women in the trade in the early to mid 2000s and I suspect encouraged a lot of the new generation of women, who were young girls at the time. My book does not cover any of this more recent time period as I left Europe in 2000 and moved to the United States, which seemed like a good point to finish that part of the story.  

“Times and tattooing have definitely changed exponentially since the “Last Century.” I think for older tattoo artists, it is hard to stay relevant in this modern world dominated by social media, but I do feel that we can learn from the new generation in the same way that they can learn from us, through the exchange of ideas and a good communication base, which is now so much easier to achieve than the pre-internet days.

“I hope to change the direction of some of the narrative about Gatekeepers, which is becoming more prevalent on the internet by highlighting a lot of what my generation of tattooers went through to learn the tattoo trade with no easy access to information and equipment and explain what actual Gatekeeping looked like back then. There is very little comparison between how it was to get into tattooing then and now, but we are, after all, doing the same thing with the same goals.  

Sacramento, CA 2017. Photo credit James Novaes

“To me, the 1990s changed tattooing in the most substantial way, taking it to new levels and a fresh public perspective. Tattoo artists of the time tried, tested and investigated many different avenues of what tattoo machines could do in the skin and forged a solid path. That research and application opened the doors to many and varied machine types, needle groups, colours, techniques, and styles. Artists with college degrees and different perspectives have now taken it to a whole new level.  

“As for myself, I still work in all styles, as I have done since day one, so it is interesting to observe the evolution of it all and I am curious to see what the next decade brings. I do not tattoo full time anymore outside of conventions and guest spots, due to the toll that tattooing has taken on my body; it is real, folks! Look after your back and your hands!”

Pym with the first proof of her book, 2024

Signed copies of Show Time are available from showtimebook.bigcartel.com. Printed version, eBook as well as audiobook can be found online anywhere you get your books!  

Interview with The Tattoo Journalist

Tattoo enthusiast Adriana de Barros, The Tattoo Journalist is an author, editor and photographer covering all things fine art and tattoos. Her unique interviewing style sets her apart, making her work with legends of the tattoo world a must-read. In this exclusive interview we chat to her about her career, tattoos and the future of tattooing…

A portrait of The Tattoo Journalist.

How did your fascination with tattoos begin? As a child, I remember seeing postcards and books with tattooed 19th-century women and circus performers from “Freak shows.” Outcasts drew me in because they were different.

I would have been heavily tattooed as a teenager with old-school sailor tattoos like swallows and other designs, if it hadn’t been for my severe pigment allergy. As a result, I had to wait a few decades longer for inks that were more natural and suitable for sensitive skin.

Illustrative body art by Makoto.

Which genre of tattooing are you drawn to the most? I enjoy all types of blackwork, from abstract to illustrative. Anything done well in black ink, positive or negative space — I’m drawn to the simplicity and ancient qualities of black ink and how it remains relevant and modern.

An inside look at the first issue of “Ta’too,” featuring Daniela Sagel’s artwork.

When did you get your first tattoo? Do you still like it? I got my first piece approximately five years ago, and it was a little heart in a less prominent location to allow me to test my response to the ink before getting a larger piece. Although the tattoo has sentimental meaning, I would not call it as attractive on an aesthetic level; I prefer more solid art like my backpiece.

A black-ink piece by Makoto.

Do you consider yourself a tattoo collector? No, because I prefer to have a single flowing piece of art on my body. It took eight hours to complete an ornamental floral work on my back, and I’ll finish the ribs, shoulders, and arms in time. As a collector, the only thing that comes to mind is tattoo books, which I acquire for study and collection.

An interview with legend Freddy Negrete at Hollywood’s Shamrock Social Club.

Do you prefer being tattooed at conventions or an artist’s studio? I’ve had both, but I prefer a calmer, quieter setting with more one-on-one interaction with the tattooist. As a spectator or member of the press, I enjoy conventions because they allow people to see tattooing on a larger scale and meet international artists. However, event spaces are challenging to navigate for artists or clients; it is a hectic environment.

The Tattoo Journalist’s photographs of Freddy Negrete.

What is it about tattoos do you think that makes them so appealing? When they were underground, it was their edge and mystique. With the increased availability, I feel that the permanent-ink factor on the skin may be a lifelong commitment that empowers you. It becomes more than a decorative item; it imbues you with a traditional, spiritual sense.

It has the potential to transform you positively so that your inner sentiments become visible on your outer; you become more yourself.

The debut edition of “Ta’too.” Cover art (head tattoo) by Gordoletters.

What inspired you to write your book Ta’too? Its goal is to offer an alternative to mainstream publications by being transparent about the tattoo community, the art, the history, and the human side of the narratives, rather than following internet trends. The first edition featured avant-garde tattooists ranging from Makoto to Oscar Hove.

The second covers tattoo legends from Charlie Cartwright to Kari Barba based in the United States, individuals with 30- to 40-year careers who paved the way for the rest of us. Younger generations frequently overlook them, and I believe they deserve to be featured and told their stories, which speak volumes about the industry’s growth.

The third will be completely different, focusing on raising tattoo awareness in other parts of the world.

On the left is a painting by tattoo queen Kari Barba, which appeared in the second annual of “Ta’too.”

You’re the editor of Scene360. Can you tell us more about this publication? On December 1, 2000, I launched Scene360 as a digital arts and film magazine. It merged several art disciplines into a single publication that did not exist on the internet at the time.

It piqued readers’ interest right away. Film festival coverage (SXSW, Cannes), interviews with painters (Gary Baseman, Helnwein Gottfried), photography (Carl de Keyser, Kavan the Kid), and poet profiles were among the early highlights.

Scene360 was developed with the help of various contributing editors and writers. We included graffiti and tattoos, and as readers expressed interest, we added additional features. For the last decade, tattoo art has been one of our specialties, and Scene360 has shifted its focus entirely to tattoo content. It was nothing more than a natural occurrence.

Lyle Tuttle, the father of modern tattooing, during the Santa Rosa expo in 2019.

What moment in your career, so far, are you most proud of? That’s a difficult one to answer. Having previously worked as a graphic designer and web developer, it took around 15 years of hard work to be recognised for a Webby Award for Best Art project in 2015 without any financial assistance or ties to a large firm. The majority of online ventures require funding to succeed. I didn’t have any; everything was self-sufficient. It taught me that I could achieve what seemed impossible.

The second happened not long ago, when I was at the Santa Rosa expo and had the honour of meeting legend Lyle Tuttle for the first time. I became engrossed in the moment, listening to his stories and absorbing his historical knowledge for hours. Sadly, he died a few weeks after we met, but that day stayed with me; he showed me that I was on the right track, that tattooing would be my life’s purpose. I am highly grateful to Lyle!

Shane Tan’s tattoo art, one of the Scene360 interviewees.

Do you have a favourite tattoo artist? Responding to this will send me to hell. I’m not going to name my favourites, but they include Maud and Gus Wagner, Sailor Jerry, Ed Hardy, Horiyoshi III, Chris Garver, Gakkin, Shane Tan, Hanumantra, and Makoto.

Is there an artist you’d love to interview? Ed Hardy.

Kari Barba during her 1982 first convention, held on the Queen Mary in Long Beach, California.

Which female tattoo artists do you admire? Along with Maud Wagner, who is credited with being one of the first female tattoo artists in the Western world—a pioneer and true inspiration—I love Kari Barba, who committed her work in the 1980s to promoting gender equality and has remained a tattoo force ever since. 

The development of a bodysuit by Shane Tan.

The tattoo world is constantly changing; where do you see the tattoo industry going in the next 10 years? I believe we are in the midst of a new tattoo renaissance. East Asia is reviving—Japan, China, Singapore, and South Korea. Growth will occur in the West as well.

Creatives tend to feed off one another; if one region of the world excels, it pushes other areas to improve. Even though there are many tattoo artists today, the ones who will survive in the long run will be true artists with quality expression, composition, and technique.

In terms of a personal wish for the future, I hope that ink technology advances so that coloured pigments appear opaque and bright on darker skin tones.

Follow The Tattoo Journalist for more insightful interviews with tattooing legends.

Beautiful old photographs of Tattooed Ladies

Here at Things & Ink we are constantly being inspired by photographs of beautifully tattooed women throughout history. These women, who were perhaps some of the first to be heavily tattooed, have paved the way for all of us tattooed women…

‘Nora Hildebrandt—Tattooed Woman’ by Charles Eisenmann, Ronald G. Becker Collection of Charles Eisenmann Photographs, Special Collections Research Center, Syracuse University Libraries.

Unidentified Tattooed Woman’ by Charles Eisenmann, Ronald G. Becker Collection of Charles Eisenmann Photographs, Special Collections Research Center, Syracuse University Libraries.

Unidentified Tattooed Woman’ by Charles Eisenmann via Syracuse Special Collections Research Library.

‘Unidentified Tattooed Woman’ by Charles Eisenmann, Ronald G. Becker Collection of Charles Eisenmann Photographs, Special Collections Research Center, Syracuse University Libraries.

 

Tattooist and the Tattooed, An Exhibition in Paris

From the origins of body art 3,000 years ago to contemporary artwork, a new Paris exhibition from HEY magazine and tattoo artist Tin-Tin charts the history and significance of tattoos throughout civilization.

Tatoueurs Tatoues runs from 6 May 2014  until 18 October 2015 at the  Musée du Quai Branly37 Quai Branly, 75007 Paris.

The exhibition is curated by journalists Julien and Anne, and includes photographs, tools, skulls and pieces of tattooed human skin.

“Tattooing is part of the common heritage of most of humanity, we wanted to do this exhibition for a long time because we feel it’s important to show that tattooing has a real history and is a pure product of humanity. There’s not a place in the world where mankind has been that has not used tattooing … It’s both artisan and artistic. In the past there was a fear of tattoos and people would hide them. Today attitudes have changed. People used to do it because they wanted to identify themselves as different to make a statement, but today it’s become fashionable and the opposite holds true. People want to be different so they don’t want tattoos.” Julien.

The exhibition explores the art of tattooing from around the world and maps the tattoo revolution. From traditional styles and techniques to the more mainstream and trendy ideas of tattooing.

All images from Vogue Hommes International