Elementary Scents – The tattoos behind the start-up

Created by best friends Becky and Steve, Elementary, are 100% natural parfums, brewed in the UK. They’re proud to be zero-waste, vegan and cruelty-free, and not afraid to be a little bit different. We caught up with Becky to hear all about her tattoo collection and the inspiration behind Elementary.

I’ve always been a massive nature nerd (and proud of it) and have been fascinated by tattoos for as long as I can remember. Being mixed raced in a predominately white school, I often struggled to accept my skin growing up, and at times felt like the odd one out.

Tattoos have become such a cathartic outlet for me and a way to embrace who I am.

That, and the freedom of nature, have had a huge impact on my life, as well as helping to shape our vision for Elementary. We launched in December last year and we’re a small, indie brand making 100% natural, unisex fragrances.

Swallow – My first tattoo. I heard Alice on the ‘Outside In’ podcast recently and she mentioned that “it’s a right of passage to have a shit first tattoo experience”. I couldn’t agree more! Done in my early twenties; I was left waiting for hours, sat sweating during the whole process and ended up with a tattoo more cutesy than Sailor Jerry, and some script that looks more like ‘familu’ than ‘family’. I don’t regret it though, and it’s paved the way for the rest of my ink.

Lotus and Hamsa – They may be teeny, but these guys mean a lot. I’m quite a spiritual person and love what they symbolise. They were done by Abi Tonge who was a tattoo apprentice at the time. She’s gone on to do some amazing things, which is just awesome. Both Steve and I are both big into mindfulness and really welcome this into our vision for Elementary. Although we create fragrances, we believe it’s so much more than just smelling great.

Nature scene – A little reminder of my love of nature and how it can make you feel. Mountains, trees and fresh air. Is there anything better? This piece reflects a huge part of our concept for Elementary; that reconnection to nature, feeling inspired and free.

Robin and envelope – This tattoo sparked my thigh collection and was brought to life by Josie Hall who’s since become a good friend and my ‘official’ tattooist. It has a strong emotional meaning, as I had it done shortly after my nan passed away in 2012. The envelope signifies a way to always keep in touch, and I think most of us remember a loved one when we see a robin, don’t we? I love this tattoo.

Crying heart – A crying heart usually symbolises heartbreak, but for me, it’s a reminder to always look after my mental health and accept that it’s ok to feel a little sad sometimes. Wellbeing is something we’re really keen to talk about – let’s be open and accepting of our feelings. Our scents have a super high concentration of essential oils, giving them aromatherapeutic qualities, which is such a great and simple way to get a little boost.

Peony and sweet peas – Both of these tattoos were done for people that I’m so grateful to have in my life. Pretty much anyone that knows me, will be aware just how much I ADORE my nan. A few years ago she gave me a cutting from her peony and it blooms every single year. I love it and I love her, so now I have a peony that lasts all year round. She’s 96 and loves this tattoo. She’s very cool.

My mum has always called me Sweetpea and grows them each year. Last year she went through a lot and it was a really scary time. I got this as a constant reminder of her strength and beauty. She’s not too keen on tattoos but was actually pretty tearful when I showed her this, which is lovely.

Bee and forget-me-nots – Not much explanation needed for this one – bees are incredible and so important to our ecosystem. Without them, we’d be pretty screwed! They’re also extremely beautiful, and the fluffy ones are just wonderful (and damn cute).

Ship in a bottle, exotic lady, ‘You’re so cool’ – I’m a firm believer that not all tattoos need to have a meaning behind them. And these three don’t. They’re some of my favourite pieces and I got them simply because I wanted them. (If you don’t get the film reference we can’t be friends).

And lastly…herb – A spontaneous little guy that I got with Steve not so long ago. We were working away and managed to find a tattoo studio that was open in the morning, on a Sunday, and did walk-ins. We both love dinosaurs (why wouldn’t you?) so I got this, he got a raptor. It’s honestly such a cool experience getting tattooed with your best mate, and it’s basically cemented our friendship forever.

Harness your power – Wolfmumma

Based in North Wales Anna Jones (Wolfmumma) conjures witchy vibes and natural powers with her work. With a new studio location soon to be announced we chatted to the tattooer and illustrator about her style and how tattoos have returned her power to her…

We love your witchy women, what inspires these and the rest of your tattoos?
Thank you so much! I like to create protagonists. I love making powerful portraits, creating characters is always fun! There’s definitely a running theme of fortitude in my work, many of my figures are compromised in some way but they are still strong and powerful.

What do you like to create and what would you like to do more of?
Portraits! I also like creating nature inspired stuff and creatures but mostly figures. I love drawing and tattooing figures, never gets old! I’d like to do more of everything! I’m missing tattooing so much right now, as so many of us are. I’m looking forward to getting back to it and developing my work further!

How would you describe your style? What drew you to tattoo and draw in this way?
I think the most accurate way to describe my style would be illustrative blackwork. I draw what I love and in that way my style has developed naturally.

How long have you been tattooing? Where would you like to take your work in the future? I’ve been tattooing for roughly three years. I’m looking forward to guesting at a bunch of studios in the near future including Occult Studio in Worthing, but obviously everything is on hold right now. I’ll be releasing news about my guest spots and my next project once normality has resumed!

What made you want to become a tattooist? Did you do art before?
I did do art before! I’ve always been obsessed with art. I graduated from University College Falmouth with an illustration degree in 2008 and I then worked as a freelance illustrator. I had a break from doing art professionally after getting married and having kids. This was a difficult time for me as I was experiencing domestic abuse/violence which lead to my separation. Art was a huge part of my recovery and I began working as a freelance illustrator again as soon as my youngest started school.

My own tattoos were a big part of reclaiming my power, my body, and sense of self. Becoming a tattoo artist felt like the next logical step. It blows my mind that I can now help others with their own tattoo therapy and experiences.

Can you tell us a little about how tattooing and tattoos make you feel?
Tattoos for me are a self affirmation, they are power and choice. Through my own personal tattoos I have regained power over my body and how I choose to express myself. Tattoos been an important part of my journey as a domestic abuse/violence survivor. To tattoo others as a job makes me happy and it never feels like work. The trust and belief I have from my clients is a dream and I feel extremely fortunate to be on this path.

Getaway car: getting to know Stella Vlad

As I have mentioned before, I am a creature of habit. But some habits have inevitably been shattered. What I love the most about New York City is its ability to be a port in a storm; in a life that constantly hits unexpected turbulence, I remember the persistence of places in the city to shelter. Think of tattooing that way: they are moments, snapshots, and lyrics on your body, in a way that you have wanted; not something you passively accept as your fate, but an alteration that you know will also alter the way you see yourself. In that I’ve seen tattooing as my own armour, places where skin has been thickened by ink and scarred tissue is more resistant than what inflames in the sunlight.

Not all tattoos have the meaningful, weighty significance that the general public seems to ascribe to them. We’ve all been asked, “what does this tattoo mean to you?” – and for some of us, they do, in their own way, have meaning. But the process, the artist, and the location can have a much more significant impact on the duration and approach one has to their inked skin once it’s over. After a long and difficult winter, I retreated along the banks of the Hudson River, where world-renowned Patrick Conlon opened his own shop, Speakeasy, at the heart of the gorgeous town of Peekskill, about an hour north of New York. There, a bright, large, airy space covered in murals – including a spot featuring a starry night sky – he hired local artists and talents, gave them jobs, and collected an eclectic, both traditional and modern, group of artists, who in turn elected a queen – Stella Vlad.

Having been tattooed by Patrick several times before, and having taken days to go to Peekskill, enjoy its brewery, coffee shop, and small bookstores, I had seen Stella but never dared to approach her before. It’s a shame, as she is one of the nicest, kindest, and funniest people in this community – someone who is the embodiment of open arms and hospitality. I came with baggage, yet it didn’t matter. I was starting work on my stomach, a body part that causes me anxiety, and at no point was it a problem to accommodate the hills and dips of my body, its swollen curves or the ridges of a ribcage. Stella and I discussed what is a simple script – but one that encompasses my life as a whole – for a while, pondering flourishes, weighing sizes. Every single moment comforted me in knowing I would have the tattoo that I wanted, and as time passed, the little apprehension I still had about a difficult body part disappeared. At each step of the way, Stella explained what she was doing, when and how I should breathe, and in what felt like the blink of an eye, it was over.

Of course, I wasn’t the first client of hers to suffer from anxiety and body dysmorphia. It very much, in facts, pales in comparison to clients who identify as trans or who have been through major surgery, whether wanted or required. And so, Stella’s vision and placement suggestions were informed by an intimate knowledge of the various stages of an individual’s journey and the power of identity, how it can be a tool of suffering or one of empowerment. Her comfort within the shop is also a testament to the work Speakeasy brought to downstate New York: an inclusive, non-discriminating, and welcoming place for people of all walks of life, regardless of their class, ethnicity, gender identity or sexual orientation. Speakeasy maintained a traditional vision of the art of tattooing by allowing modern and realistic creation, and provides a space in which a new generation can work, evolve and experiment safely. For clients, a place such as this one, close to the homiest coffee shop found outside Scandinavia, where other local business owners come say hi, and residents say hello, feels a million miles away from the busy rattle and hum of New York City. Being tattooed by Stella Vlad felt like a privileged moment.

Being an exile has defined my entire life. I had to cross a border into a civil war as a child, I found a home away from home as a late teen, and it wasn’t until very recently that I planted roots – roots I will leave to return to where I come from. The Menzingers’ new album contains themes of forced travel, solitude on deserted islands and the gaping void of separation, but by welcoming it, by accepting it as a fact of life, it had entered my body before Stella tattooed it on me. Every sensation was acknowledged and accounted for; her wonderful fiancé Emily being present added to the sentiment of being welcomed into a fold. I had known Patrick when he worked at Graceland in the early 2010s, and had followed him up on the Metro North. Sometimes it is necessary to be a little far away to appreciate what remains present, in your mind, in your heart, and in this case on your stomach, regardless of distance.

Stella Vlad grew up a punk kid and remained one, playing in a band, listening to music that reminds me of my own high school years, but offers wisdom beyond that – an intuition, that one can only presume has come from travelling through certain paths to find an understanding of the relationship with our bodies. The way our mind sees them, how we want them altered, and that carefully crafted art can inspire change. As the tattoo heals, I will be in three different countries on two different continents, and the sentiment of exile will perdure, but I grow up and create new habits, new locals, and new mindsets. Stella is capable of accommodating an extremely wide range of styles, and I saw on her next client, how the tattoo fits them and every part of what had been done previously showed experience. A well trodden path can sometimes be as exciting and as powerful as exiting a comfort zone. If the saying is true, and what we create can save us – then Stella Vlad added a few months to my life line.

Sarah’s ‘hello exiles’ tattoo by Stella Vlad

Sarah Kay is a very, very tattooed international human rights lawyer living between Paris and New York. Originally from Belfast, Northern Ireland, Sarah has kept its taste for cold rain and the rewards that come from sitting still under pressure. You’ll probably find her in London drinking wine.

The patterns of Abigail Tonge

We love the ornamental tattoos of blackwork artist Abigail Tonge, who tattoos at Ultimate Skin in Leeds. Usually she’s incredibly busy traveling, guesting at other shops in and outside of the UK, but during lockdown she had some time to talk to us about her tattooing style and influences…

How long have you been tattooing, what inspired you to start an apprenticeship?

I have been tattooing for five years now, the time has flown by and so much has changed both creatively and personally. I tend to live my life at 100mph, there is never enough hours in the day.

Before getting into tattooing, I was a fashion graduate and working in the industry but it was obviously not for me. I missed the creative life so badly, I spent a lot of my spare time drawing at home, drawing mostly tattoo designs and getting tattooed by various artists that worked in very different styles. Hence why I’m covered in in all sorts, this really helped me understand tattooing more and what there was to be explored.

At university I studied the construction of garments, how people wore them and how to draw them, but I think my tutors got bored of me incorporating tattoo related designs into my work in whatever way I could. I even wrote my dissertation on ‘the history and Renaissance of tattooing within my generation’, as I found links between fashion and tattoos and I found this so interesting. I love the history of tattooing, it’s fascinating and beautiful how everything’s grown and adapted in every aspect from the technical standard of tattoos, equipment, the type of people who have them and people’s attitudes towards tattooing.

From the age of three or four I was obsessed with drawing. I used to spend my Saturdays off school drawing copies of Beatrix Potter illustrations out of books. As I got older I started to notice tattoos on people and I just fell in love. Tattooing was an unknown world that I wanted to discover but I never considered myself anywhere near good enough to be able to do it as a career.

Some people stumble into tattooing and go from there, but for me it was by no means easy. I’m a firm believer that in life anything that’s worth having or doing, requires a hell of a lot of hard work and perseverance!

How would you describe your style, did you know you would always tattoo in this way?

When I first started tattooing I did a bit of everything, which is super important when you first start out. I worked in colour and did some blackwork until my tattoos started to evolve naturally with my interests in pattern and my love of Asian; Indian, Polynesian, Thai, Tibetan artworks. I always knew I wanted to specialise in patternwork in some form, I had to do a lot of adapting, researching and growth before I got onto the road I wanted to be on. Saying that, you never stop learning and growing, I still have a long way to go but I love that! If I could have gone in any direction in tattooing, this is one hundred percent where my love and passion is. I would describe my work as intricate, bold ornamental blackwork.

What do you love to tattoo and what would you like to do more of?

I really enjoy tattooing anything with a heavy line weight, even then mixed with smaller needle groupings to create more intricate details; like in the Thai inspired designs I’ve been doing. I would love to do more large scale Tibetan projects, in placements that are not so generic, like big torsos connected to the back or both full legs. I have plenty of ideas up my sleeve, the limits are endless! I also love to tattoo in another style, floral blackwork. I did a lot of this in my first four years of tattooing. I still love to take on floral projects but prefer to do large scale work when it comes to these concepts. I like to add solid black elements, mixed with dotwork and negative sections to create gradient differences and depth.

What inspires your work?

I find inspiration in literally anything with a cultural background! Patterns, motifs, embroidery, paintings, buildings, temples and home wares. I take inspiration from anything really especially when I travel around other countries. Life itself is surrounded by references and inspirations that we don’t always realise are around us.

I always feel so inspired by artists that I’ve looked up to from the beginning; Tomas Tomas, Guy Le Tattooer, Jondix, Thomas Hooper, Curley, Jack Peppiette, Mckenzie, James Lau, Aaron Anthony, Cal Jenks, Kieran Williams, Savannah Colleen, gosh there are so many more!

Can you tell us about your own tattoos, how do these make you feel? Do they affect how you see yourself and your body?

I started to get tattooed at the age of 18 (on my eighteenth birthday to be exact). What was popular in tattooing in 2008 was very different to what is popular now. I have a lot of neo-traditional tattoos from when I first starting getting tattooed, I have things on me that I definitely wouldn’t get tattooed now, however I wouldn’t cover or re-work most of them as they are just another layer of who I was and once adored.

Nothing in life is consistent, we as people are forever changing and growing, including our tastes and interests. I think I’d be one big cover up if I kept changing things to match what I liked at the time, saying that there are sections of me where there are and will be cover ups as I love a good blast over. Like on my chest I had a really ‘scene’ chest piece of script, roses and diamonds done when I was 19 that now has a black patternwork blast over the top, I love how it looks as you can see the layers of shapes, shadows and colours underneath.

I know I have a good mixture of good and bad tattoos, I think this is good because it makes you look at them in a way we’re you can learn what works and what doesn’t, what looks good and stands the test of time and what doesn’t on different areas of skin. This helps you be a better tattoo artist for your clients in my opinion.

I wear my tattoos proudly, I love how tattoos look on the skin full stop hence why I want to create them on other people’s bodies.

The Archer: time with Chris Wednesday

I was once young; my skin had become storytelling, marking milestones, confirming relationships, affirming identity.

Our contributor, Sarah Kay explores what changes and what stays the same when you get tattooed by the same artists years apart…

I met Chris Wednesday when I was young – blonde – and making decisions about my career that would define who I am. I do not know how to properly celebrate without a tattoo; so I asked Chris, a young, blonde, Michigan transplant to work on some script for me. One of those sentences he tattooed was from singer Scott Hutchison; at the time, I didn’t know how foreboding it would be.

Scott’s death was both predictable and unexpected, and I’ve mourned his loss for months and months. Chris’ script, on the inside of my left arm, is a testament to the job that I perform, day in, day out, the commitment I made, the work I would never stop conducting, the leadership position I wanted to be in at the time – and am now. He created two pieces: “all is not lost”, from Pedestrian Verse, the story of a woman surviving both her environment and mental illness; and “combat rock”, an ode to the Clash, to being boots on the ground. I was fighting against male dominance in my work, trying to define my role within an evolving legal landscape, and being a woman, my own, with her shortcomings and insecurities. Tattooing was how I expressed myself, and how I let others create on the canvas that I allowed myself to be.

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It took me seven years to go back to Chris, and with the wonderful gift that is hindsight, it was a painful mistake to wait that long.

Chris Wednesday now works three days a week out of Gnostic Tattoo in Bushwick; he lives in my old building; and we found each other where we left off. I am trying to understand, comprehend and tie together what happened to me in this time span, see what’s similar and what’s different. Location: the same. Bushwick was formative, so being tattooed there was comforting, relaxing, lowering my heart rate. Hair: vastly different. I navigated chemotherapy, several war zones, post traumatic stress disorder, sexual assault, and tattooing at various pain levels, all over the world. Ushering in this new decade back to where it all started for me felt cathartic. I have a mentor, I’m heading toward continuous education. I feel grown. My identity is solid; my relationships, formative and lasting; my record as a worker, uncontested and praised. I still have imposter syndrome and felt the need to rally around what felt familiar and strong: what supported me, what got me through tough times, what empowered me to continue. Chris performed two of the strongest tattoos I had. At a time when I was shaking off a belief system and reconstructed myself, I found my way back.

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Gnostic Tattoo, located at the heart of Bushwick, is a relaxing, home-like place covered in plants in the windows, Tibetan flags, incense, and a sense of knowledge of the human body. Warm, welcoming, and strange enough not to feel in the beaten path or an industrial-sized walk-in tattoo shop in trendy Brooklyn, it feels like entering a space almost womb-like, where creativity sprouts like the spores of the plants. I worked with Chris on a tattoo of moon phases, deciding over an hour whether I wanted to have several ones or the traditional pagan “maiden, mother and crone”. Even though I’ll never be either of those three, the symbolism in the three phases of a woman’s life can find its expression in other forms – innocence, adulthood, and wisdom – that Chris translated with single needle outlines, dot work on the dark faces, and a realistic full moon in the middle: the moon on which we landed, both scientifically rendered and captivating by its distance. It felt like the phase I was in. He dotted the top of my wrist to complete the piece, at the end of a full sleeve, with comfort, revised placement, all of it without a single drop of coffee.

If Chris Wednesday is more widely known for his traditional style, he spends the days he’s not tattooing painting and working on ideas in his busy brain of his. Capable of alternating between detailed, realistic colour pieces and single needle, projected black and grey work, Chris has an eye for drawn-on script, feels challenged by gap fillers and includes bold lines and vivid colours. It adapts to the bodies of his clients in a large spectrum of gender, identities, and comfort. Chris works with the canvas he’s given and smiles, laughs and runs wild through the ideas he’s handed by either appointments or walk-ins. A transplant from Michigan, a former mechanic and still a traveling salesman in tattooing, Chris is incredible at adapting, fitting beauty into oddly placed curves, colouring a wide array of skin tones, embracing the complexity of the human body, in its transformative, painful, physical, physiological and psychological aspect of tattooing. A journey that can be exciting and extremely positive can turn into a permanent reminder of a disturbing fall-out, as our founder Alice Snape has recently discussed. I told Chris about pieces conducted on me that were so vastly different from what I discussed – some rushed, others representing values I know the artist doesn’t share and made me feel uncomfortable about what my work as a human rights lawyer means in other settings.

As Chris laid a pillow on his table for my comfort and asked if I needed a second one – I had recently gotten work on my stomach – he mentioned those are more frequent than I expected, and he was fully aware, at every moment, of the responsibility he holds not just as a creative, but as one who permanently alters bodies: that the experience should be as smooth as possible, the design as sophisticated as the client deserves and the placement, fitting for the body the client has – whatever shape it is. I met Chris when we were both in our mid-twenties, both blonde (although that wasn’t natural for me) and I thought my body lent itself to tattooing and other forms of adornment more than I do now. Discussing the anxiety I have about removing an article of clothing disappeared immediately, and we were back to being the same people we once were.

I thought I had so much to prove seven years ago; I was still working my way up professionally, entering debates to have my voice heard, and wanted, more than anything else, to assert my place in the law world. I had worked to hammer the point that my brain came with my body, even if it made traditional and patriarchal systems skeptical. I don’t regret any of the tattoos Chris gave me then, as they remind me I have come so far, even with stops and gaps in the meantime. Those gave me the luxury – there is no other word – to be myself fully, instead of reducing my appearance or presence for others. I am still working and improving, but with more stability, more recognition, and a smaller social circle that provides me with the encouragement I need. Chris’ tattoos on me this trip – moon phases, a lavender twig, and a song commemorating a break up – are the mature version of who I was then. They also represent his own, coming from guesting, co-owning, then being a permanent feature of Brooklyn. We have grown, yet we are still the same. In that, I want my body to represent this one full moon I am in.

Chris Wednesday tattoos at Gnostic Tattoo in Bushwick, Brooklyn.

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Sarah Kay is a very, very tattooed international human rights lawyer living between Paris and New York. Originally from Belfast, Northern Ireland, Sarah has kept its taste for cold rain and the rewards that come from sitting still under pressure. You’ll probably find her in London drinking wine.